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I purchased a new style 100lb little giant last week in Spokane and have a question. The hammer I think is in good shape except for one issue. The spider is not on the main shaft completely. The shaft is recessed into the spider about ½”. The key is also sticking out beyond the spider more than ¾”. This machine has been like this for some time. Some type of crude attachment is stuck on the end of the key, in an attempt to drive it in or pull it out. In order to take up the axial play in the main shaft, given the clutch assembly in out of position a large split collar was added to the main shaft just behind the forward main bearing. So the question is how do I go about getting the clutch back on the shaft and where is should be? I think the key is tapered but I’m not sure about that. I talked to Sid at little giant and he was very helpful in telling me what to look for before buying. There was a huge guard covering the whole back end so I didn’t see this and it would not have been a deal breaker anyway. I have a call into Sid to see what he can tell me and to order a DVD set from him on rebuilding.

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If it ain't broke don't fix it!.....Don't even think about rebuilding unless you have to. Linkage issues are important and probly need some TLC, that's all I'd do for now..............

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I will add a couple pictures of the offending items as soon as I figure out how to do that. I’m sure Sid will tell me what’s required to put this back in position. I’m inclined to leave it alone as a couple of you guys suggested. I might be more interested in pulling it all apart, if it needed new babbit but that’s not the case. There is about .04” of radial play in the main bearings and about twice that amount in shim between the upper a lower halves.
I will be pulling the front end off to clean it up, repair missing oil cups, bush or replace the pitman which has about .04” clearance in it also and perhaps tighten up the linkage and arm holes, and perhaps add brass gibs to the ram guides. I really don’t want to do anything more that necessary to get it running. Perhaps someday I’ll add a break to the old girl but not right now. What do you all think about adding a break BTW?

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No need to add a brake to a 100#er. I've never seen one that had run on problem, the fly wheel and ram weight are enough to cause it to stop.

Post a picture and I think we will be able to help you better. The keys are tapered.

Dave from Diller

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The spider being out of position on the shaft, blocks the grease path to the clutch bearing, so I guess I will need to fix it. Sid suggested this might be a problem and sure enough its is. I am really suprised how little this hammer seems to have been used in the last 50 years. Its spent its whole life in an aluminum plant in Spokane Washington, making pry bars I've been told. Lots of life left in her if I can fix this little problem.

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Wow, do you guys really feel that way about brakes on mechanicals? I wouldn't be without one on my hammers, for single blows and especially driving tooling I find them to be indispensable. All of the higher quality mechanical hammers came with factory brakes, must have been a reason for that. I'll admit if you are just wailing away drawing tapers you don't need one but seems to me that to get the most out of a hammer you need control. Yanking your work out of the way while the hammer slows down (even for just an extra rotation or two) is less than ideal even if you can get used to it (I've done it that way too).

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I'm with you Justin. I use alot of tooling & I wouldn't try at all without a brake. I can hit nearly full power singe blows, no problem. I also think it is alot safer
if the hammer stops instantly when I let off the treadle. I'm sure Sid filled you in on how to do this. It is a tapered key pull the key push the spider on I like .008 to .010 end play and this is set with the spider. when in place drive the key to lock the spider in place. You might want to pull the spider off and do some measureing to make sure the the grease hole will line up when everything is put together.

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It might be easier to disconnect the ram linkage, remove the bearing caps and pull the shaft so you can get it on a table. If the key won't move, you may be able to drive the spider away from the key taper (dead blow soft hammer and be careful) to get some movement. An inertia type slide hammer might also help - that's what I typically use when pulling stuck keys.

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One other aspect: Please besure you are trying to go the right way with anything. I had a friend who had just bought his first powerhammer and had spent several hours trying to pull the lower die wedge before I stopped by and looked it over and told him it went the other way! (Which it did fairly easily...)

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The key is in bad shape so I'll need to machine a new one. I'm not going to be able to work on this for a few weeks. but what kind of taper is on the key. Is it tappered on only one side two or all four. I'm guessing the keyway is straight, correct. I don't have a surface grinder so I'm hoping a nice milled finish and then hand fitting with prussian blue will be ok. I've manufactured a lot on equipment over the years and NEVER built anything with a tappered key, so this is new to me. I thank you all for your help. I'll post pictures if I ever figure out how the heck to do it on this site, what a pain.

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I have a piece of 1/2 in. plate with a hole that will fit over the key and set on the hub of the spider.
Weld a bolt to the end of the key, let it cool, put a pipe and washer over the bolt & use a nut to pull
the key. you may have to hit the plate with a punch and hammer if it's really tight. The key is
tapered on one side only. Not real sure but the taper maybe 1/8 in per foot. key way in the shaft is
striaght the taper is in the spider hub.

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