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Paint can propane forge


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I have all the parts on order for a Paint can propane forge.
I plan on using baby oil for quenching
I also purchases a TempilStik 1600F to identify the perfect time to quench/harden. I'm going to be using a MAPP torch head that will be hooked up to a 20lb grill tank using an adapter i have.
I just picked up an Estwig cross peen hammer
I already have a Railroad piece that was somewhat made into an anvil that i'm going to be using.

I have two questions regarding the setup of the forge and I'm hoping someone will be able to assist me.

Question 1. Using the Tempilstik i'm guessing i shouldn't allow the flame to be pointed directly at the metal i'm working since the stick would melt prior to the piece truly being to the proper temperature, is my thinking on this correct?
If so, i was thinking of making the inner chamber a cylinder shape and place a slightly raised surface/shelf to put the work piece on. This way the flame would completely encircle the piece but not touch directly. This would allow the tempilstick to melt right at the correct temp. What are your thoughts on this? Should i just make the floor flat and allow the flame to flow directly over the workpiece?

Question 2. right now i'm thinking of many possible paths for the flame to take, which would be best or please let me know if there is another to consider.
a. I could have the inlet towards the front angled slightly to the back and angled down so it would swirl around towards the back of the forge. I'm not sure if there would be too much turbulance back there though. Perhaps adding a cone shape to the back of the forge to then redirect the flames out through the center.
b. I could have the inlet towards the back and again angled slightly to the front and down so it would swirl around towards the front. my only concern with this is that it would push too much heat out the front.
c. I could have the inlet dead center angled slightly down but straight. I would then use the refractory cement to mold a little raised spliter just above the inlet to split the flame as it comes around to each side, thus creating a swirling flame heading both ways.
d. Just aim the inlet directly at the piece I'm working on and forget all that complicated junk...

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1. I'm not so sure how accurate templstiks would be inside a forge, but if you go by site (I know that can be arbitrary) and use the stik as a double check; pull the piece from the forge and mark with the stick. If it doesn't melt, put it back in the forge

2. which way to aim the flame has been nearly beat to death! Not quite, but almost :D To be sure, however, there are numerous posts (one, not so long ago) on the subject in this section. Or a google search on "forge flame placement" would certainly overwhelm you with possibilities!
Personally, I have found that a forge burner only heats a given number of cubic inches efficiently regardless of the direction its pointed. More is dependent on the rest of the forge design, i. e. size, refractory used, etc.
btw: I typically aim the flame is such a way as to form a swirl beginning in the center of a one burner forge. For a multiple burner forge I put the burner swirling in the center of its fractional area
Hope this was helpful

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  • 2 weeks later...

Agreed, if your using a mapp torch head you can only heat just so much area, very good insulation is a must, blocking off the front of the forge with firebrick helps keep heat in but if the hole gets too small it will restrict the air flow on that style burner, youll be able to see this in the change in flame color coming out the front of the forge, keep reading and researching, sounds like youve got a good start
this is were I did most of my reading before I started making sidearm burners for my atmospheric or venturi propane forges
best of luck to you

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  • 2 weeks later...

I would suggest you don't use the Mapp gas (If you haven't already ordered it) just because you'll go through the canisters very fast if you're doing a lot of forging. propane would be the less expensive route in the long term.

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