Javan C.R. Dempsey Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 Saw this on CL when I was just searching around.. $500 for whatever it is: http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/tls/2645940130.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 Dang; I wish that was San Antonio New Mexico! (we've got a Las Vegas too) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 Thomas I know you usually work on anvils but maybe you could try your "powers" on this drop hammer? Surely the anvil portion would be affected! Students or relatives must be nearby. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 Well I wanted to show someone how it worked and ended up buying another powerhammer, Champion #1, for $600 and have just refreshed the saving's account after my quad-state purchases. If it was local I'd have looked at it real hard indeed; but my wife is dragging me off to Wales this spring and I need to build up the moola just in case, sigh, gone are the days when I hauled 90 pounds of scrap metal in a carry on... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Javan C.R. Dempsey Posted November 14, 2011 Author Share Posted November 14, 2011 Yeah, when I was a kid moving back and forth to Costa Rica, we transported our entire house of possessions in large wheeled trashcans, the rubbermaid kind that are roughly the same shape as the kind that cities provide. We'd have to pay a *small* fee for oversize, but we'd put a hundred or two pounds in each, wrap the lids with duct tape and hex screws, and custom's would always just wave us through so they wouldn't have to deal with it. We also used to always sit at the back of the plane during trips to hang out with the flight attendants, which meant free booze on domestic flights, and free flow of booze (already free in price) on international flights, plus a guarantee that they'd know where to party once we landed. *sigh* flying used to be the most fun thing in the world. now it's possibly the least. = Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 I went and looked at those on Saturday - same place I got my fly press. The seller has two strap-type drop hammers. There is no motor assembly but the overhead rollers are there. You would have to fix all of the mechanism for it to function as designed but I'm thinking about buying both and converting to air. The only problem is that they are an H-frame so no side-to-side work; only what will fit thru the guides. I suspect the rams weigh 150 lbs or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 The only problem is that they are an H-frame so no side-to-side work; only what will fit thru the guides. Yeah, but when was the last time you did something where that would cause a problem? Seems like a problem everyone worries about, but never (OK, rarely) runs into. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 Yeah, but when was the last time you did something where that would cause a problem? Seems like a problem everyone worries about, but never (OK, rarely) runs into. I agree completely and am seriously considering going after both of them. The footprint is small and I have enough headroom in the shop to put them along one wall and have dedicated tooling for production runs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 As my screwpress is an H frame I find that I tend to design and figure out the order of work automatically to take the H frame in account. In a historic smithy in germany I saw a video of a fellow using a very large board hammer to start a hoe out of 2" sq stock: Heat it to temp; place the block half way in on one side, WHAM that side of the hoe is started. Repeat on the other side and then moved to a water powered hammer to draw it out thinner. Very impressive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan P. Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 Looks handy http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=goTv7...eature=related Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpotter Posted November 25, 2011 Share Posted November 25, 2011 I want a drop hammer any one build one before. How is the hammer head lifted? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
humphreymachine Posted November 26, 2011 Share Posted November 26, 2011 These open far enough to use standard handled top swages---no striker needed. Has anyone tried it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 For a board drop hammer there is a board attached to the top of the ram and powered rollers at the top of the frame that engage the board when you step on the bail lifting it. (nice ones have a release mechanism that automatically lets go when the ram hits the top.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 I want a drop hammer any one build one before. How is the hammer head lifted? There are some pics of drop hammers at Finch foundry on a liink Sam Salvati was looking for information on, unfortunatley I can't seem to upload pictures in current format, will see what I can do. The rise and fall of the hammers rely on friction on a belt that is in contact on the wheel on the lineshaft, releasing the rope on the end of the belt releases the friction and hammer drops down, to lift from rest rope is pulled bringing belt in contact with the wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 Here we are Mr P. First pictures are lineshaft with drive wheel on and belt loose. These show the belt secured to the tup and the shape of the guides. These drop stamps were originally used to produce Devon spade blanks I think they cover most of the details you would require, the church style bell pull ropes are not original features. If you need any more info, just ask and I'll see if I have or can get details for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNewman Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 These open far enough to use standard handled top swages---no striker needed. Has anyone tried it? Only if you don't mind possibly having it surgically removed from your body. If possible you should avoid using tall top tools on a power hammer as it can spit them out forcefully to the sides. If you are very careful on a normal power hammer you get away it as you can start with light blows. If you go straight to full blows like on a drop hammer you are likely to wear that top tool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpotter Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 Thanks for the pics. Is the strap sandwiched between two wheels? By releasing the wheel the strap is no longer griped and the weight falls? This looks like a simple machine and it would be handy for some of the work I do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 Thanks for the pics. Is the strap sandwiched between two wheels? By releasing the wheel the strap is no longer griped and the weight falls? This looks like a simple machine and it would be handy for some of the work I do. The strap runs free over the one lineshaft/drive wheel, by pulling on the rope, the belt contacts the wheel creating friction, and the tup rises and when the rope is released the tup drops. With practice you can control the blow, However these drop hammers were designed to work with a top and bottom die producing long runs of specific items, They are a "drop hammer" (One good blow at a time) as opposed to a forging hammer, (repeated blows) I have seen people trying to forge a point on a 1/2" square bar on one of these, and wondering why it was not very effective, yet it would form a shovel blank in one drop, a task that would be difficult with a team of strikers. Horses for courses, or in this case tools for purpose, the beauty of these hammers are their simplicity Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpotter Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 It is that simple? what if you hold on to long or is it just a quick tug and the thing goes up. I would be using it with closed dies I make some small tools for jewelers. I have been forging them in my press but it is way slow and over kill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peacock Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 when the ram gets to the top it hits a stop and the belt slips. the pull is steady, hand coming down as the ram goes up It really don't take long to develope a feel for the amount of friction needed to get exactly the blow/stoke you want. There is a catch to hold the ram up for safety while you add or remove the part or change dies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpotter Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 Thanks for the info I might build somthing soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now