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information on socketed axes.


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Dear all I have a socketed axe to make (hopefully) and was wondering as to any information on making the large wood working socketed or executioners socketed axes?
I have an idea or 3 ( 3 possible ways to go about it) but was wondering on any literature on the subject.
I would be grateful for any information .
All the best Owen


I'll post stuff up if and when it gets done.

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Sorry,Owen,the only thing i know is that i know nothing...These types here:

post-3679-0-65635500-1319521172_thumb.jp


post-3679-0-71993700-1319521202_thumb.jp


post-3679-0-07269800-1319521226_thumb.jp


Are known in the Old Country as Finnish,or Scandinavian type axes.They have a complex socket,often closed off...
A couple of years ago Alan and Co.were discussing the German goose-wing broadaxe,and Alan came up with an "exploded view" of parts layout;it's a complex box all welded together,into which the blade-base gets welded in,then the blade itself,then the edge... :wacko:

If you meant a somewhat more straight-forward kind,like these:

post-3679-0-32704800-1319521263_thumb.jp

post-3679-0-03716600-1319521290_thumb.jp

post-3679-0-93758800-1319521315_thumb.jp

There're a few more here:http://www.miljolare.no/data/ut/album/?al_id=2085

Some have weld-seams fairly obvious,if one looks very close.Now these SEEM a little easier,but i've been wrong in my attempts at reverse-engineering before.VERY wrong! :)

Best of luck in any case,you can do it,if anyone can! :)

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I had a couple of tries yesterday in mild steel , they were not successful, or at least not completely successful. I put a () in the bar and then upset the corner in. I then drew out my socket
6282697612_55685717aa_b.jpg

I left the front of the socket thick so that there would be a "strong" front edge that would flow from the blade in thicker stock than the socket. I then folded the socket
6282697604_a37f53f989_b.jpg

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I tried one attempt in coke and set the weld in the eye but burned through the socket.... I tried again in gas and set the eye but could not get the socket to weld. so I fire brazed it .....not all that happy! I shall be remaking mandrels etc, I have done a few socket welds on spears and knives with little problem , all of those were steel though..... I think its back to basics here either in wrought or steel. my standard practice when I hit a skill wall is to back up , make it simple and break the process down , so its back to socket school for me!

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Owen,Right On!Good for you for venturing forth like that!

It's back to socket school for all of us,when the need for one arises.Simply,trying to be such generalists in metalwork predictably makes us Non-specialists at certain,less-common,moves.

I'm on the sidelines on this,and should,probably,keep my mouth shut,but i'd say that what you're trying to do is odd:I.e.trying to have the blade and the socket share the original stock.

I see (as i interpret the old ones)that the blade and the socket are distinct from each other.The back of the blade is what looks to provide the mass for the weld,either that,or(in some where you see the ears of the socket hugging the blade),the top of the socket opens,admitting the blade within,and is lap-welded on the sides of the blade.

But again-great going!All the best to ya!

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had another go today ..... I forged out a separate socket piece and left thickness in the area that would end up wrapped around the axe body, did the socket weld first then cleaned it up and inserted axe body . I am much happier welding carbon steel then mild!! this is a baby at2lb.....there is a damascus edge insert..... leaving material thick helps too. on monday I will try the real deal (at 3 times the weight!!!!!) ...I will have a lot of these in a weeks time! thanks for all your help and suggestions.

6289134447_79a22e1945_b.jpg

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  • 6 years later...

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