basher Posted October 24, 2011 Posted October 24, 2011 Dear all I have a socketed axe to make (hopefully) and was wondering as to any information on making the large wood working socketed or executioners socketed axes? I have an idea or 3 ( 3 possible ways to go about it) but was wondering on any literature on the subject. I would be grateful for any information . All the best Owen I'll post stuff up if and when it gets done. Quote
jake pogrebinsky Posted October 25, 2011 Posted October 25, 2011 Sorry,Owen,the only thing i know is that i know nothing...These types here: Are known in the Old Country as Finnish,or Scandinavian type axes.They have a complex socket,often closed off... A couple of years ago Alan and Co.were discussing the German goose-wing broadaxe,and Alan came up with an "exploded view" of parts layout;it's a complex box all welded together,into which the blade-base gets welded in,then the blade itself,then the edge... If you meant a somewhat more straight-forward kind,like these: There're a few more here:http://www.miljolare.no/data/ut/album/?al_id=2085 Some have weld-seams fairly obvious,if one looks very close.Now these SEEM a little easier,but i've been wrong in my attempts at reverse-engineering before.VERY wrong! Best of luck in any case,you can do it,if anyone can! :) Quote
Dave Budd Posted October 25, 2011 Posted October 25, 2011 I was given a book recently with a description as to how the top axes are put together. I'll dig it out today and have a look for you Owen ;) Quote
basher Posted October 25, 2011 Author Posted October 25, 2011 thanks guys , I have been scouring images and there are many ways these were constructed (of course ). Ill let you know as soon as I have had a go or two . Quote
basher Posted October 26, 2011 Author Posted October 26, 2011 I had a couple of tries yesterday in mild steel , they were not successful, or at least not completely successful. I put a () in the bar and then upset the corner in. I then drew out my socket I left the front of the socket thick so that there would be a "strong" front edge that would flow from the blade in thicker stock than the socket. I then folded the socket I tried one attempt in coke and set the weld in the eye but burned through the socket.... I tried again in gas and set the eye but could not get the socket to weld. so I fire brazed it .....not all that happy! I shall be remaking mandrels etc, I have done a few socket welds on spears and knives with little problem , all of those were steel though..... I think its back to basics here either in wrought or steel. my standard practice when I hit a skill wall is to back up , make it simple and break the process down , so its back to socket school for me! Quote
ThomasPowers Posted October 26, 2011 Posted October 26, 2011 When the main material was real wrought iron they tended to do a *lot* more welding than we do today in mild steel or steel. What flux were you using for the attempted socket weld? Quote
jake pogrebinsky Posted October 26, 2011 Posted October 26, 2011 Owen,Right On!Good for you for venturing forth like that! It's back to socket school for all of us,when the need for one arises.Simply,trying to be such generalists in metalwork predictably makes us Non-specialists at certain,less-common,moves. I'm on the sidelines on this,and should,probably,keep my mouth shut,but i'd say that what you're trying to do is odd:I.e.trying to have the blade and the socket share the original stock. I see (as i interpret the old ones)that the blade and the socket are distinct from each other.The back of the blade is what looks to provide the mass for the weld,either that,or(in some where you see the ears of the socket hugging the blade),the top of the socket opens,admitting the blade within,and is lap-welded on the sides of the blade. But again-great going!All the best to ya! Quote
Dave Budd Posted October 27, 2011 Posted October 27, 2011 I had a look for that book and found it in the blacksmithing book from Gransfors (I got a copy from John Bellamy earlier in the year). Not much information I'm afraid, but I'm guessing that the socket is welded around a mandrel judging by the picture Quote
basher Posted October 28, 2011 Author Posted October 28, 2011 had another go today ..... I forged out a separate socket piece and left thickness in the area that would end up wrapped around the axe body, did the socket weld first then cleaned it up and inserted axe body . I am much happier welding carbon steel then mild!! this is a baby at2lb.....there is a damascus edge insert..... leaving material thick helps too. on monday I will try the real deal (at 3 times the weight!!!!!) ...I will have a lot of these in a weeks time! thanks for all your help and suggestions. Quote
teenylittlemetalguy Posted October 28, 2011 Posted October 28, 2011 neat deal, can't wait to see the big ones! Quote
joshua.M Posted October 30, 2011 Posted October 30, 2011 it would be interesting if you could take the axe off the handle and use it as a hatchet or a throwing axe??? how dose the head stay on the handle? i love the form of the bit and the socket. Josh Quote
basher Posted November 2, 2011 Author Posted November 2, 2011 here it is in rough finish,,for some reason I cant imbed the image... its here..... Quote
Drewed Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 here it is in rough finish,,for some reason I cant imbed the image... its here..... http://farm7.static....171230679_b.jpgHolly Sh....!!!! Remind me not cut in front of you in the kebab van line! Quote
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