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I Forge Iron

Forging kelp help


clinton

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The stem is 3/8 inch so 3/4 would be 2 x the thickness. I am thinking of doing Habermann style corners with rivets, maybe run the sides up past the top and forge a final of some sort, just to show some different options- something other than just a square box frame. I need to sit down and do a sketch and toss around what looks good first. I may do a different joint at each intersection. Also I will be running all the stock through the hammer to get rid of the factory look so I can re-size it is another option.

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Those look great, the only critique I have is that both elements are too much the same, almost as if they came out of the same mold. Same amount of leaves pointing the same way on very similar stalks. Maybe make another or rework one with a different amount of "leaves" on it to make it look more natural? At least turn one over so they would be mirror images of each other. My opinion. B)
Rob

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Good point Rob- I appreciate the critique, it is easy to get tunnel vision for me and there is still time to make changes. I got the basic frame done today but I am still tossing ideas around on the final assembly.
I am not in a big hurry to get this done, I would rather take my time and make a good presentation. I think keeping it simple is better, I was tossing around ideas on the frame to put some different techniques of joinery or finals, but I think that may distract potential clients from the main theme. So I am thinking just a simple frame, that I can take to their location and show them how this would look in their setting.
pictures to follow

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Looks like you nailed it .............The only critique I will mention is on the first post you mentioned ''The flat parts'' which aren't flat at all.....A little twist and some folds would cinch the gesture of the plant..... :)


I like to have plant based gates etc have as much 3 dimension depth as possible, usually 3-4" with a 1" frame. The seaweed is different than plants that grow in the air, it actually looks pretty flat if you go back to the picture in post #15.
Rob
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  • 4 weeks later...

Another suggestion for a frame would be to have the verticals and horizontals "billowing" like wave forms (or perhaps only the top horizontal billowing...)

I'm a big scrounger and recently found a trashed wood auger bit ay the scrap yard and for a lark flattened it. Looked good and like some of the local flora to boot so I went back and rooted through all the piles and took home 3 more plus a concrete bit that had sheared off it's drive section. While at the Festival of the Cranes last weekend I flattened them all and curved them in 3D and will be mounting them in a local rock as a drought resistant plant for my Mother's yard.

Anyone ever try soaking steel in copper sulfate as a start for natural patination?

(Note: no usable auger bits were harmed in the making of this piece, the ones found at the scrapyard were such that the person tossing them felt they couldn't even get a quarter for them at the fleamarket!)

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Thanks Macbruce- I ended up using 3/4 inch bar stock for the frame (I have a bunch of it) I ran it through the flat dies to get rid of the factory look. I wanted to keep the frame simple, this is just a sample and the product is the kelp. I think by keeping the frame simple it will allow people to focus on just the kelp. I made the panel of a size that can be taken to the customers site so they can see how it would look in their setting. It measures 32 inches wide by 46 inches tall

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Ya they are drilled- the focus is on the kelp, the frame could be made in several different ways, my idea is that this element could be used for many items- fire place screen, gates, railings, doors, ect, ect
many other possibilities I am sure. The kelp is just sitting in the frame it can be turned (more drilled holes)

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