Chrispy Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 Hi all, Have any of you valued blacksmiths out there got ang tricks to get wrought iron to display a pewter coloured finish. I have buffed a candelabra back to almost bare metal and applied clear lacquer but it is not quite pewter. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 Polished steel is polished steel and varies, in tone and shade. What shade of pewter are you thinking of? (Colour swatch) there are many variations. You could use a guilding paste, graphite paste or some other combination of paint finishes. Why would you want to disguise a "proper finish"? A certain furniture manufacturer has spent may months and thousands of pounds trying to get a "Hand forged finish" to mass produced cold bent products, all based on a painted finish. They were never succesful, and failed to get the finish required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrispy Posted August 7, 2011 Author Share Posted August 7, 2011 John, Is there more than one pewter colour. Dull lifeless grey, a bit shinier than oxidized lead. Almost the colour of lead that has had a shave hook dragged across it. It is to match a similar one tier Candelabra that the customer already has. Yeah I agree these people who want to change the colour of wrought iron need to have their mouths washed out with soap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 Natural Pewter colours depend on exposure and who cares for the object. Some are matt and others more polished. One way to try and match them is to use an aerosol car spray similar to the colour you wish to achieve, (if you can access a nearby supplier) There is a fair range between the silver to graphite grey that may be near to what you require, otherwise you may have to rely on mixing paint to match. If you have an auto paint finisher (spray shop) nearby, have a word with them and tell them what you are trying to achieve, and throw yourself on their experience. There is also another thread running at the moment http://www.iforgeiro...623#entry233623 that has reference to different paint and patina's finishing that may be useful. Good luck with a match Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrispy Posted August 7, 2011 Author Share Posted August 7, 2011 Thanks John, I might end up taking your advice and give Crash Supplies just down the road a call. I know they charge about AU $50/litre for 2 pack paint plus $27.50 to do a colour match, A cost I can't sling onto the customer at this late stage. However for now I will wait and see if I get some a few more tips from the others. That might saye a buck or two. Cheers Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 Well I think you are after a matte finish so you could start by eliminating the polished surface. Seems like you'd also rather have it darker. I'd say try a little mustard etch and you might get everything in just one treatment. Assuming that you'd prefer a more even finish to a patterned one, then evenly apply the mustard and use a finely ground version (not one with little granules of larger size in it). I'd advise a test sample (or several) to help refine and test the technique. For complex surfaces and larger areas you could thin with vinegar or water and spray it on. You could also get a pewter patina solution from http://www.sculptnouveau.com/Details.cfm?ProdID=78&category=6 A light spray of their "Slate Black" patina looks like it could do what you want. Ii have also done nice work with just a spray can of Rustoleum black applied with a fogging effect and then overcoated with a clear... but I AM an expert! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry H Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 try sand blasting, then polyurethane , maybe semi gloss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 I'd start by soaking overnight totally submerged in vinegar and then washing it off with a wirebrush in running water in the morning to remove all the scale leavina grey colour. Then wire brush or buff until you get the shade you want and seal. note that you will likely get flash rust after the vinegar soak as bare steel loves it's O2! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 How bout tin plating it? A little weathering and tin will match pewter pretty well. Clean the piece, sand blasting will probably work best, then heat to a black heat and brush vigorously with a copper or brass brush till it's entirely covered. of course just dropping it in a container of copper sulphate attached to the neg (I think) lead of a battery charger will plate it far better. Then tin it like it was a copper pot. While not perfect it will be darned close to pewter and weather well indoors. Frosty the Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomhw Posted August 10, 2011 Share Posted August 10, 2011 I'm with Frosty on plating or soldering. Another method would be color glazing. consult with your local art-glass specialist. He will most likely know more about this than most people. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted August 10, 2011 Share Posted August 10, 2011 I'd start by soaking overnight totally submerged in vinegar and then washing it off with a wirebrush in running water in the morning to remove all the scale leavina grey colour. Then wire brush or buff until you get the shade you want and seal. note that you will likely get flash rust after the vinegar soak as bare steel loves it's O2! After the vinegar bath, immediately wash with dilute ammonia (1/4 cup per gallon), then dish soap (Dawn or Palmolive I know work) with a stiff plastic brush. It WILL NOT rust for a fair period of working time, maybe a couple hours, longer if you have very low humidity. The color left is pretty cool, I like the pickled and oiled look on forgings. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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