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fluidsteel

300# Fisher is MINE!!!

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300Fisher.jpgI got this beauty for $360 today.... Edges are good, face almost perfect, horn i missing 1/2" or so off the end. He also had a farrier's vice and hammers, tongs and a blown forge still.... Portland Oregon Craigslist...

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Heck yeah, you did very well. Don't try to fix the horn, just be happy with what you have.

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WOW!!! You got a steal!! Nice looking anvil. -_- I'm jealous! I agree with not trying to "fix" the horn. Use it as is. That's a GREAT deal. Congrats and thanks for sharing. :)

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Bringing home an anvil is better than bringing home a puppy, an anvil never needs to be house broken and it will still be with when they plant you in the ground and you never have to put it to "sleep".

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Is there a date on the anvil?

Didn't see a date yet. I bought it this morning on the way to work.... After looking at it closer, the horn appears to have been cast that way.. I'll wire wheel it up in the morning take some better pictures.

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it appears to be 1913... scraped on the date with my knife. The 3 looks a lot like the 3 for the weight, so it could be 1918 unless they weren't making them in the last year of WWI?

The horn looks like it was repaired with GIANT rasp....pics in the morning.

Question....???what's the proper way to fix the mushroomed sides? Pien them up? Or, grind em off?? Gasp, cough, cough....

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it appears to be 1913... scraped on the date with my knife. The 3 looks a lot like the 3 for the weight, so it could be 1918 unless they weren't making them in the last year of WWI?

The horn looks like it was repaired with GIANT rasp....pics in the morning.

Question....???what's the proper way to fix the mushroomed sides? Pien them up? Or, grind em off?? Gasp, cough, cough....


If you need the sides cleaned up, grinding slowly with an abrasive sanding disc is probably the best way to go. One of those that look like small pieces of emery paper overlapping each other, 80 or 120 grit. Be careful to go slowly, and do not heat up the top. Check progress often, and try to resist the urge to sand the top.

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Here it is cleaned up.. I lightly cleaned up the mushroomed sides. I then slathered it in diesel and then wire wheeled it.
I believe it is actually missing several inches from the horn. It looks like from the gouges that it was cleaned up and fixed with a chisel, so my guess is the repair was a long time ago.

For reference, I set my 119# Kohlswa on top of it.

The rebound is around 90-95% over the entire face. One are near the hardie hole that's maybe 85%...The awesome thing is the ring, or should I say the lack of... I picked up twenty 1-1/4" steel bearings Friday so I just happened to have one in my pocket. The ring from the Kohlswa to the Fisher is night and day! biggrin.gif

The date on it is 1913

I am sooo happy!smile.gifsmile.gif
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Fluidsteel

I will measure a 'complete' horn and get you the exact length, just so that you will know what is missing. Aside from the small round end, your anvil will give you years of service, as it starts its second century of use. Your edges are in good shape, and the top looks pretty flat. Forge away and be happy.

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Thanks. I'm looking forward to using it. I'm going to forge some hardy tools for it. On in particular I want to do is a stake anvil, I'll use it for refining the bevels on my blades and forging in the ricasso. Question, the one I used was tapered to fit in a 250# Fisher, it seems to me that you risk losing your heel with a wedged/tapered hardy tool. The hammer blows are pretty mild with a 2# or so hammer. Having the stake stay firmly in place was the reason the stake was tapered...
Should I forge mine to be snug, or slightly loose? I have a few pieces of 2"x2" 4140 to use...

The guy I got the anvil from decided to let this little 48# Roger Lorance swage block go too...

Swage1.jpg

Swage2.jpg

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You can have a good fit without it being wedged and make sure that most of the force is transferred to the face of the anvil through a good wide base that sits on it with the stem down the hardy.

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