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I Forge Iron

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I watch the local postings every day and one cam up that caught my eye, and only 30 miles away. The owner had it listed as 360 lbs, so I called and set up a time to go see the anvil. It had been painted so I took a wire wheel to look for markings. I was able to find the Trenton logo and the front foot has the numbers 410 on the left and A70039 on the right side, which dates to 1907 according to Mr Postman. I am not too sure on the date it may be 170039 that would be 1919. It does have what looks to me to be a cast base no handling holes and an oval depression on base. This thing is big and in real good shape, there is a repair on one edge on the face but the other side looks original. It has 1 1/4 inch hardy hole that is in great shape. I need to finish stripping the paint and build a stand for it
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I did peel off some of the paint and there are no surprises, I could see the one repair with the paint on. I told the misses that I will sell this one for a modest profit, I am not into big mark-ups on tools, but I may keep this one as they do not come up often in this size here. I may have to find something else to sell to keep things all quiet on the home front
and yes SASK Mark the lines are nice, this horn is one of the best that I have ever seen- good thing my fork lift will not fit through the door- as I would be sleeping with this anvil tonight
I am wondering why the heel is out of square, not that it matters but it is way out of square- may be useful in some way

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I got the stand built and most of the paint removed, now I need to get it set near the forge. I am going to rearrange a little to fit this anvil in. I am going to turn my other anvil 90 degrees then put this one next to it, I will have to turn that extra bit when coming out of the forge but the way my shop is set up this is the best way i can see to keep both anvils near the forge and still have room to move around them both, as well as just move around all the other equipment.
Here are some pictures of the anvil stand, not as pretty as Monstermetals stand but it is solid- 1 inch plate and 2x4x3/8 tube for the legs. I kept the legs in close because my shop is tight on room and it will be anchored into concrete, a wider stance would be better but I would be tripping on it. (seems like I am always tripping on something)
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I'm a fan of Trentons. I got a 250# one at a garage sale 40 years ago. About 8 years ago, I heard about an anvil in an old auto junk yard. I investigated, and sure enough, it was amidst the old cars and sitting on the ground. I purchased it, and helped load it. The anivl was big and covered with rust and dirt. When I got it home and cleaned it, It turned out to be another Trenton weighing 250#. So by happenstance, I would up with twin Trentons!

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I think you'll find that heel leg on your stand is too far out and if you use a striker. the base plate will flex and cause some annoyance. 1 1/2" to 2" plate works best; I've found 1" is not enough. don't ask me why I know this....

I seldom use a striker, I fashioned the stand after the Tom Clark anvil stand that I have and that one has served me well, his plate was 1 1/8 inch thick, this is what I had so I used it- it cost me nothing but the effort to get it home. If it does give me problems I can modify it by adding a stiffener or gusset.
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