Making a Bayonet

[E T Hector]

I am trying to figure out the easiest way to make a bayonet for my dog-lock trade musket. It can compensate a socket bayonet but was really made for a plug; which I don't want. I'd like to make my own socket bayonet and don't know how. I think I need a swedge.

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

Every socket bayonet that I own, or have seen has had the socket bored out to a close fit. Drifting first can lead to problems later. I would say to forge the main blank , then drill/ream the socket to fit.

[Bentiron1946]

Some times poking around gun shows you can still find an old bayonet that would look just about right for the period. If you didn't have to pay and arm and a leg for it I'd be tempted to buy that and use the blade and then make my own socket and then weld the blade to the socket. Yeah, I know not quite Kosher but I think a better outcome than making the whole thing from scratch. ;)

[Backwoods Blacksmith]

I have used the AK- 47 bayonet several times. I have made 3 sword canes using them and a socket bayonet for a Brown Bess musket. The long 1903 or the Enfield bayonet make good sword type bayonets.

[tomhw]

I am trying to figure out the easiest way to make a bayonet for my dog-lock trade musket. It can compensate a socket bayonet but was really made for a plug; which I don't want. I'd like to make my own socket bayonet and don't know how. I think I need a swedge.

I have an unmarked and unidentified socket bayonet. The triangular blade is about 14 inches long, and has a straight taper from about 11/4 at the widest to the point. The top of the blade is flat and the lower is deeply fullered to form the lower two sides, separated by a narrow spine. The tang is integral with the blade and is about 2.5 inches long and is bent 90 degrees to the socket.

The tang is forge welded to the socket. The socket looks like it was made from a sheet that had been rolled into a cylinder and welded. It was not reamed to make the interior perfectly round and smooth. The barrel attachment is a Z-shaped groove that extends from the rear of the socket, on the same plane as the blade. There is a punched 1/8 inch hole on top of the socket (bayonet on a flat surface, with the blade on the left side). It does not have a locking ring.

I bought the bayonet in a junk store long ago, thinking that it might be a Confederate piece. It is similar to18th century French bayonets. It is well made and appears to be a production product but, imperfectly, pre-industrial.

[shiftless]

I have made several socket bayonets for my display rifles (I display the rifle by installing the bayonet and sticking it in the ground)  The easiest way I have found is to start with a bicycle top or down tube.  Cut a length sufficient to form your socket (preferably as large or larger than the barrel you want to mount it on but it doesn't need to be).  Locate the weld seam on the inside of the tube and cut the length of the tube eliminating the seam.  File the edges of the cut so as not to mark your barrel.  Cut a parallel cut to the first cut so that what remains of the tube will just fit your barrel when the tube is squeezed down on the barrel.(If your tube is too small, squeeze it down and measure the gap and cut a piece from the remaining bicycle tube to fill the gap as needed.  Don't make it too tight!)  If your barrel has a bayonet lug or a front sight one side of the first cut can be used for the bayonet locking slot using the bayonet lug or front sight for locking.  The slot will need to be cut in a squared "Z" shape to allow the socket to turn and lock on the  locking stud.  To reinforce the socket a cut a thin ring of metal from the remaining bicycle tube to wrap around the base of the socket.  I may have to add some metal to the ring to allow it to be bent to form a bridge for the lug/ front sight to go under sliding in the locking slot.  I generally take a file and bevel the forward edge of the ring for appearance purposes.  You my want to add a second ring to serve as a support for a locking band to keep the bayonet from sliding down the barrel when the bayonet is withdrawn from it's target.  Locking band and second ring were not found on older bayonets.  I use a wire welder to  weld the cut in the tube where it is not required for the locking slot and to secure the ring(s) to the bayonet socket.  The bayonet itself is easy.  find a "T" post made of as thin a steel as possible and grind the edges of the "T" until they reachg a point.  (preferably find a "T" post that does not have knuckles!)  Bend an electric fence post to for a 90 degree corner and cut the bend off.  Put the socket on the musket in the locked position and mark a spot on the hammer side of the action about half way between the ramrod side and the front sight side and about half way between the front of the locking slot and the front of the socket.  This is where you weld one end of the 90 degree corner and the other end is welded to the Pointed "T" post.  I use a chain saw file and a dremel to make my welds "flow" into the connected parts and to cut the locking slots.  I heat blue my finished product with a propane torch.  Early military guns were issued in the "white" and kept that way by rubbing the serface of the guns with the bayonets.  The shiny guns and bayonets along with the tall hats that were popular about the time of the Revolution was an early attempt at psych-ops.  The sun's reflection off those guns and the tall appearance of the marching troops must have been terrifying!  I know the people on this forum are more interested in making a proper, forged bayonet and I salute them for it.  My way is quick and dirty and it works for me.  I have recently been gifted a home made forge and may try to make things like you artisans but I'm a long way from making anything I'd care to show anyone.

[Irondragon Forge ClayWorks]

Welcome from the Ozark mountains. The last time the OP logged in was Jan. 2015 so I doubt he will see your reply. To me your method is a little too complicated. I have made several socket bayonets in the past and forging out a socket is easy. The last one I made for a friend was a Civil War Era spade bayonet.

I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sails. ~ Semper Paratus

[Frosty]

Welcome aboard Shiftless, glad to have you. If you put your general location in the header you'll have a better chance of hooking up with members living within visiting distance.

Thanks for the directions, it'll be a good addition to the forum. Someone will read it and benefit.

Frosty The Lucky.