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Posted

After reading others posts and seeing how some spring fullers were made, I decided to make one that doesn't need any welding. I have access to a welder but not everybody does, especially someone just starting out. I am really sorry that I didn't document the steps with pictures as I went but it is so simple, I'm hopefull the after pictures will speak for themselves.

The fuller showing the bends to fit into the hardy hole.
post-14490-0-00035100-1309012742_thumb.j
The wedge that slides into the hardy hole to tightan up the fuller.
post-14490-0-12167500-1309012784_thumb.j
The fuller in the hardy hole ready to use.
post-14490-0-82789400-1309012818_thumb.j
post-14490-0-83814900-1309012858_thumb.j
Ready to hit.
post-14490-0-15467700-1309012903_thumb.j
After the hit.
post-14490-0-40144600-1309012930_thumb.j

Took me about 30 minutes to make. Would have been less but I was busy talking to a visitor.

Thanks for looking.

Mark<><

Posted

:) Thank you for that. I will add that project to my list of tools to make once I get set up to forge. What size round bar did you use and type of steel?

Posted

As you can easily see with a slightly larger bar (or smaller hardy hole) and a twist (to offset the hardy tenon) it could be made to fit the hardy cornerwise and would need no wedge. I made one like that but with a power hammer I find I use it little now as the drawing dies on the power hammer can usually handle the work.

Posted

The hardy hole is 1 inch, the round stock is 1/2 inch. It is mild steel as far as I reckon. I didn't do a spark test or any other rocket surgeon type of test. It is a piece of scrap that was lying around. It's former life was a garden flower pot hanger that pokes into the ground. I agree with the twist to have it sit in the hardy hole diagonally but what I wanted was a quick, easy, no brainer that even an idiot (proven because I did it) could do.

On the day that my power hammer changes from my right arm to something mechanical, I too will probably find little use for this one.

I am an advocate of the KISS method when appropriate.

Mark <><

Posted

Iv'e also seen it done by making the double part that goes in the hardy hole longer and doubling it back up along side itself to form a sorta 1" square.


:blink::huh::unsure:<_< Oh, Ok.
Cool, Grant! After picturing it in my mind I understand what you mean. :) I'll try that on the next one.

Mark <><
Posted

Iv'e also seen it done by making the double part that goes in the hardy hole longer and doubling it back up along side itself to form a sorta 1" square.


That's how the blueprints are for the sketches we use in Level 1 at CBA-Vista.
Posted

p.s. that seems a daft place for a hassard beacon :D


Ian,

It took me a while to figure out the hazzard beacon you were talking about. I have a dash mounted fire department light but that's inside the cab and didn't think it was visable. I believe what you are looking at is my coffee mug sitting on the hood of my P/U. It is red and rather large. Gotta have my coffee! :D

Mark <><
Posted

As per Grant Sarver's suggestion, I made another Spring Fuller this morning. Here are a couple of pics. I will be sending in a BP with all the details later today.
post-14490-0-53420300-1309646201_thumb.j

post-14490-0-32920200-1309646280_thumb.j

post-14490-0-11225900-1309646339_thumb.j

Thanks for the advice Grant. It works great!

Mark <><

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I was just considering a fuller early this week but don't have the right size square stock for my hardy. Now I don't need it. Thanks for the idea!

Posted

Nice work Mr. Mark! Mild steel is of course fine for these. I've got a couple that I've made and they've lasted fine.

All of the ones I've seen had the circular part flattened to make them less stiff. Apparently, at least in half inch stock, that step is not needed. I'll mark that down as something I didn't know.

Nice tools and nice work!

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