ironsmith Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 Hey guys, I run an AC only 220 amp Hobart welder. Currently I am working on making some propane burners for some forges, I am using 3/32" 6013 rods for welding up the tube on the burner. I am getting good deposit, good penetration, but When i leak test for gas I always find a pin hole or two and I have to go back and touch up the holes. was wondering if there is a rod thats better suited to the task of making gas tight welds! Thanks for any suggestions!:P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 Make sure the joints are totally clean. Brazing rod, if all else fails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironsmith Posted June 21, 2011 Author Share Posted June 21, 2011 thanks for the tip, hadn't thought about brazing, i've got a oxy/ acetelene torch so that might be an option... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hillbillyblacksmith Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 I was thinking brazing as well but if you want to stick with arc then I'd go with 7018's not as much penetration but smoother solid weld. maybe anyway, I haven't used an arc in about 6 years so the memory maybe foggy. :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 Idealy, gass pipe is welded with 6010. Since you have an AC only welder, 6011 is the ONLY rod to use. 6011 is th AC version of 6010. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old N Rusty Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 I am with Arftist on this one. E-6011 is the rod you need, you should clean the weld area with a grinder and wire wheel. If any part is galvanized the zinc must come off. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironsmith Posted June 21, 2011 Author Share Posted June 21, 2011 I just happen to have about 5 lbs of 6011 rods, though there a little too big for the application... Just did some leak testing under 30 psi propane and only had 4 pin hole leaks, ( too small to see with out soapy water) , zapped the holes with what the 6013 rods i have left and rechecked. no leaks! the next set i build I am gonna try welding em with 6011 and see the difference. one question though, is the 6011 rods pretty sensitive moisture? these were kept in a drawer with a desiccant.... Just wondering if I am gonna have to bake em.<_< Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old N Rusty Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 Baking the E6011 is not really necessary. That is, if they are not so old the bare ends are rusty. If they are as rusty as everything in my shop then baking won't help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crunch Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 6011 as others have said. 6011 cuts/digs/penetrates a lot more than 6013 so you'll need to pay more attention to heat control and work fast. don't worry about moisture with 6011 (i mean, other than keeping it out of the rain). you only really need to worry about that with low-hydrogen rods like 7018. personally, i use 6010/6011 for about 90%+ of my welding jobs...it's great stuff. i HATE 6013! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BM454 Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 6011 is one of the best AC rods made. They work well on DC as well. Just remember a 6011 does not have near as much slag as a 6013 or 7018. If I were you, I would grab some scrap and run a few beads with it.. One big difference between a 6011 and a 6013 rod is you don't really drag them like the 6013. More of a whipping motion. Not hard to do though. You can either whip it or make small circles. Either way works well. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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