Countryboy39067

The best tool for cutting RRS split crosses?

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I've been having ok luck cutting these spikes with a cutting disk on a 4 1/2 grinder.Then finish the cut with a hacksaw because the grinder doesn't reach all the way. Does anyone know of a faster more productive tool for this project?

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I use an angle grinder to grind a slot the width of the bandsaw blade. Then use the bandsaw to split the spike.
Jerry

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I use a hand held hand powered hacksaw. It's what I have until I get a bandsaw. :( But I'm blessed to have what I have.

Mark <º))><

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I've been having ok luck cutting these spikes with a cutting disk on a 4 1/2 grinder.Then finish the cut with a hacksaw because the grinder doesn't reach all the way. Does anyone know of a faster more productive tool for this project?


what kind of spikes are
'these spikes" ?

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I use a Dewalt reciprocating saw. Handiest way I've found to do them.

Do you have any estimation as to how many spikes you can cut with one blade? I've been making one cut, hammering the head flat, then bending it for access to the long cut, then annealing it in hardwood ashes overnight. The annealing didnt seem to help the cutting so I won't spend the time doing that again. I tried using a metal cutting blade in a jig saw but it failed miserably!! Thanks for all the suggestions guys!

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In the past I used a hot cut and hammer and I liked it very well. Now I use a very thin H13 hot cut in my flypress, half the heats and effort

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For every two spikes my bandsaw chews it's way through, I can hot-cut three. And I'm a slow smith.

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Guys, sorry, but I'm a total DA when it comes to this process with the spikes, and where and how to make the cuts, could someone post up a how to on this or send me a pm or e-mail, [email protected], pictures would be good as well if possible. I can pick up a ton of these each day. I have seen pictures on here of ones been made and really like the looks. Thanks Don

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I use my Jet horizontal vertical bandsaw. The biggest blade eater is not having a solid hold of the spike, chatter eats bldes almost immediately. The other hazard is not having the right TPI, the rule of thumb is 3 teeth on the materal at any one time but this isn't an exact number, there's leeway. Spikes are usually either 9/16" or 5/8" thick so using 8TPI blades works nicely. I typically get the equivalent of a few hundred per blade.

Frosty the Lucky

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Cutting hot is faster a than a hack saw. its slow and a lot physical effort to hand saw cut for 5/8" or 3/4" . You may end up paing more for blades on a power band saw than the cost of a new peice of low carbon steel. Down side is cutting hot requires practice and a good hot cut.

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I used a hacksaw on 3/8" material and I wasn't happy with my result; can't seem to cut straight. Also the blades don't seem to last very long. On larger material I used a hot cut and hammer and was very pleased with the results.

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Guys, sorry, but I'm a total DA when it comes to this process with the spikes, and where and how to make the cuts, could someone post up a how to on this or send me a pm or e-mail, [email protected], pictures would be good as well if possible. I can pick up a ton of these each day. I have seen pictures on here of ones been made and really like the looks. Thanks Don

Just go to the search box on this forum and type in crosses from rr spikes.. There is a great tutorial on here somewhere.

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Tt takes practice and a good solid vise to make a hacksaw work properly and the same rule of thumb applies for TPI.

RR spikes are NOT high carbon, the ones marked with a C are at the high end of low carbon. RR spikes need to be tough, not hard.

I cut RR rail in my HV bandsaw without wearing bands. You have to lay the rail in the clamp flange up and tilted into the direction the band is cutting. This keeps the teeth from having to try cutting the induction hardened wear surface of the rail by cutting it from the back/underside.

It's one of the TRICKS that make this craft work.

Frosty the Lucky

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This thread has insight on making the cut crosses, including measurements for different size stock.

Phil

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RR spikes are NOT high carbon, the ones marked with a C are at the high end of low carbon. RR spikes need to be tough, not hard.
Yep! ASTM-65 sez the grade 1 "soft steel" spikes must be 0.08% to 0.16% carbon, and the grade 2 "high carbon" spikes must be 0.26% to 0.34% carbon. They need to fail by bending, not breaking.

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Yep! ASTM-65 sez the grade 1 "soft steel" spikes must be 0.08% to 0.16% carbon, and the grade 2 "high carbon" spikes must be 0.26% to 0.34% carbon. They need to fail by bending, not breaking.

I never said high carbon. My spikes are marked MC which I read on here put them at medium carbon. I don't claim to know the carbon percentages. I'm just making crosses.

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No criticism intended, we're just pointing out you don't need an expensive blade to saw through it. Plain old monometal hacksaw blades will do just fine.

Frosty the Lucky.

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No criticism intended, we're just pointing out you don't need an expensive blade to saw through it. Plain old monometal hacksaw blades will do just fine.

Frosty the Lucky.

I understand. I just can't seem to cut a straight line with a hacksaw. I'm designing a way to mount my 4 1/2 grinder like a table saw for more accurate cuts.

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I understand. I just can't seem to cut a straight line with a hacksaw. I'm designing a way to mount my 4 1/2 grinder like a table saw for more accurate cuts.


Hacksaws take setup, technique and practice, even then nothing's guaranteed. Heck, there's wander in the cut when I use the bandsaw so I heat it up and use my hammer to equalize it. (OH I meant texture it!):rolleyes:

Every semester of metal shop class I took from jr high to high school Occupational Heavy Metal we had to complete an assigned project that consisted of precision hacksawing and hand filing. I gave the dice to Dad and the cribbage board to Mother.

Frosty the Lucky.

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I took an old belt drive table saw and use a thin 8 or 10 inch carburundum blade to rip leaf springs. I have also used it to split RR spikes.
I raise the blade all the way up and have very little clean up with the hand saw. Useing the rip fence sure helps keep things straight. Yuo could also make one by building a frame and table. Add 1/2 hp moter and threaded abaptor to hold the blade. Good quality Dewalt blade last a long time.
Wear gloves as the material will get hot.
Good luck

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I took an old belt drive table saw and use a thin 8 or 10 inch carburundum blade to rip leaf springs. I have also used it to split RR spikes.
I raise the blade all the way up and have very little clean up with the hand saw. Useing the rip fence sure helps keep things straight. Yuo could also make one by building a frame and table. Add 1/2 hp moter and threaded abaptor to hold the blade. Good quality Dewalt blade last a long time.
Wear gloves as the material will get hot.
Good luck

Thanks. I had thought of that but didn't know about the blade. I'll design a jig to make all the cuts. Thanks again!!

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