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making tongs, what to use for rivets


canuk

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Very Nice!

Just a note, if you use a small ox/acetl torch and hold it parallel to your wood, you can heat only the rivit without scorching your woodwork. even the straps wont get hot. A cold rivit may be good enough, but a hot rivit is a better rivit. 

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Why not just heat the end of a heavy piece of steel and apply the tapered end to the rivet. Heat transfer should warm the rivet nicely.  Think old time soldering irons.

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Make test pieces to test the various techniques rather than risk ANY saddle. 

Were it me I'd use a torch to spot heat the end of a rivet rather than a heated punch as suggested. A small tip torch will bring the end of the rivet to heat in a second or two minimizing how much will conduct into section of rivet in the pieces being joined.

A hot punch must transfer heat to the rivet through contact conduction giving much more time for it to heat through the rivet shank. 

I'm glad you joined the gang, I didn't know ANYTHING about sidesaddles till you showed up. Talking horses and riding brings back fond memories.

Frosty The Lucky.

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It could also be an interesting experiment to try some kind of thin heat-resistant shield. For example, a square of thin titanium (which conducts heat rather slowly) with a hole in the middle could be slipped over the rivet end, the rivet heated with a sideways-pointing torch, the shield removed, and the rivet hammered down.

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Stainless is a rather poor conductor of heat but the time spent removing a heat shield is time heat can conduct into the shank. Peining it down will spread the HOT section over a large area of cold steel and disperse the heat quickly. 

I'm not saying it won't work, I don't know. The times I've used a heat shield in a similar situation, usually sweating nuts trying to break them loose I slotted the heat shield material so I could just let go and it dropped off.

It's a valid technique I just don't know how well it'd compare to moving FAST with the torch and hammer. 

Give it a try John, you have some small tips for your torch don't you? Try a #2 or smaller brazing tip on the last 1/16" of a rivet. You only have to heat just the tip.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Holding the small tip parallel to the rivit shaft (parallel to the wood) is pretty critical. Start at the base and a quick wrist flip up to the tip and the shsft is beyond a yellow. The shaft is too small so  the strap acts like a heat sink and still protects the wood. Learned by experience doing sign brackets out of wood, iron and stained glass. I can prolly dig up a pic. The wood guys wanted no char and the stained glass wanted no melt or cracks. If I screwed up,,, I bought the sign bracket.  ;)

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8 minutes ago, anvil said:

Holding the small tip parallel to the rivit shaft (parallel to the wood) is pretty critical.

anvil, did you mean perpendicular to the rivet shaft and parallel to the wood? The shaft and the wood are perpendicular to each other, so the flame can’t be parallel to both. 

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i will not finish this one out.. i just repaired the tree and am putting seat in .. she wants to see if she can rebuild it,, herself.. 

i will start a page when  i work on one  my trees.. it is mine.. lol! so i can so the finished saddle.. i will have to do some forged work on it,,  

she will send me photos ..if she gets it done,, lol!!  i will keep y'all in the loop  ..  

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I should hope you keep us in on your next sidesaddle. You're one of the gang now, no running off and leaving us in sidesaddle ignorance. 

If you want ideas for what to forge for the next one, give a shout the voices have ideas. LOTS. :ph34r:

Frosty The Lucky.

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