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Chop Saw Blades

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I have tried several different brands. I put on a new blade and it cuts good for several cuts. Then it takes along to cut.
What kind of blades do you use. Have you found any last pretty good. I have a 14 inch saw.
Thanks
Billy

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... I put on a new blade and it cuts good for several cuts. Then it takes along to cut.
What kind of blades do you use. Have you found any last pretty good. I have a 14 inch saw.
....


Abrasive wheels have a choice of two options, either fast cutting or long lasting.
The longer a blade last, the slower the little bits break off to reveal new sharp bits of wheel.
The faster the bits break off, the faster the new cutting edge is exposed, resulting in faster cutting.

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Your problem is probably that the blade is glazed from not using enough pressure or cutting nonferrous metals. You need to get rid of the glazing and it should cut as well as it did before. I find using a lot of pressure can help or by taking a few quick hard stabbing cuts with the saw where you almost stall it out. Doing this will expose fresh abrasive grains. Also I only buy brand name abrasives in industrial grades. Like 3M Norton Sait or Walther from my welding supply. These brands are perhaps a bit more expensive but they work very well and are safe to use.

David there are many grades of abrasives cut off wheels available on the market for cutting a wide variety of materials. If your wheel wares away rapidly you may have been using a nonferrous or masonry cutting wheel. These wheels are silicon carbide as opposed to aluminum oxide they are also bonded differently. A good wheel properly used will keep cutting efficiently all the way down to the hub if its running at the right rpm in relation to its size AKA surface feet per min.

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My favorite abrasive chop saw blades are the Sait/ United Abrasives "stud king" 3/32". They have done a fine job for 18 years or so, I've tried most blades that I know of and they seem to be the best.

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I second the reply that the more expensive discs are the best ones to use. I use Walter or DeWalt discs, they are made for industrial use. The thinner they are, the better they cut. Mine last me at least 3 weeks of serious cutting. I can't remember, but I think the discs are only around $25-35 or so.

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Last time I was at the supply house I asked what they could get for blades. Dewalt is what they sell and they make two compounds, one for thick metal 1/4 angle iron etc... and another compound for thin metal for metal stud framers. I think the thin metal is a long lasting blade that will glaze up on heavier stock.
Rob

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I use the cheepies from HF I have great results with them and a $2.00 each not a bad deal. this last week I used a Daiblo metal cutting blade in my circular saw I was cutting 13 gauge sheet metal the blade lasted for 56 feet of cutting then started loosing carbide teeth at $40.00 a blade it was a very good investment for the project I pushed it and cut 1" square stock it ate through it like butter.

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You get 14" blade for $2 that works? They must cause cancer or some such thing.



Don`t get me going Tim. :rolleyes:

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Personally I hate abrasive cut off blades. To use them safely and comfortably one needs safety glasses, hearing, protection, dust mask, gloves as well as long sleeves and pants. They are cheep machines and they can cut hard steel but that's about it. I much prefer band saws and cold saws. I use the band saw for bulk cutting stock and the cold saw for precise cutting. If you think band saws are too expensive I got mine used for 300 bucks and put another 200 in parts in it. I have been using it day in and day out for 10 years. A blade if properly used will last months can you say that about a chop saw. You only need safety glasses to run it. It will cut 25 peices of 3/4 square in one set up. In that time I have worn out 2 chop saws.

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I have a Makita 14" and I typically buy the Dewalt brand from Lowes. Be careful because there are different arbor sizes other than the 1" my saw takes. I get pretty good service from these and I use the 1/8" thick type. What has greatly made a difference in chop saw life is my floor mounted shear from Grainger. It has a rod cutter built in for everything 1/2" diameter on down. You can't hardly beat the speed and cleanliness of a "cold snip" Good luck. Spears.

PS. You are correct Southshore, abrasive saws are some of the filthiest things on planet earth that leave you blowing black snot at the end of the day. I operate mine by blowing the sparks out the back door of the workshop and do seek alternatives when possible. Good point!

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i hate chop saws noisydirtydangerousandxpensive. 1994 i bought a Ridgid 12" carbide tip saw for steel, at the time i bought 3 blades. the blades have been sharpened to the last time, and the old saw still goes .i Know if i buy another 12" blade the smoke will pour from the machine. will replace it with a 14" carbide tip machine. chop saws leave a sharp kerf that cuts like razors and must be ground off still i have a chop saw set on a 45% for miter cuts on tubing.cant beat the carbide for dry fast cut that is free from kerf

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