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starting build tire hammer,any errors on plans?


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Greetings
I am in the process of building the the CLONTZ TIRE HAMMER
after finding 2 small errors on the plan, I would like to use this
thread to collect your experiences when building this project

problems that I noticed:

1. on pg 12, the cutout on p/n 21 crank plate is made by drilling
3, 1/2" holes and cutting the opening 1 hole is centered on the
center of the plate the other 2 holes located 2" up from horz axis
and 2.5" each side of the vert axis. the plan calls for the upper
edge of the cutout to be 2 3/4" radius from ctr.
however establishing a triangle and making the radius measurment
the hyp of a triangle c = square root of ( (2.5)squared + (2.0)squared)
which is 3.2" adding the radius of the hole .25 we get 3.45"
not 2 3/4".

2. p/n 22 long spoke is given as 6" length in parts list
however on pg 12 crank weldment drawing p/n 22 is listed as 22" long

now both of these are minor errors and do not have any effect on the build
BUT if there are any others, it would be good to know

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  • 2 weeks later...

I bought mine already built, I never could get the time to go to a build, I work overseas, and there wern't plans availible at the time.

The only real issue is the base plate realy needs to be heavier than 1/2", I'd suggest 1" at least, if not 1 1/2". Also after some use the motor base plate starts to break away from the motor houseing. Not a fault of the hammer, but sideways stress on spot welds, the motor manufacture didn't figure on the kinds of side loads a tire uses for the clutch. It's an easy fix if your a good welder, just run a quick bead and a brace and it's fixed. Just keep the heat down, my motor have been runing fine for years after modifiying.

Here's a pic, just use thick steel for the brace and make sure you put most of the heat to the brace, and do it in short sections letting it cool between welding so you don't burn the wires.

post-462-0-68148300-1296045859_thumb.jpg

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Howdy,
Good to hear that someone else thinks that they can handle it also!!! After I got the prints, I got alittle overwhelmed. Then I started looking and it looks like they spell it out pretty well. I went to a couple of scrap/steel suppliers today. One had 6" solid in surplus ($35 a ft) and 5x5 new ($11.50 a ft) I forgot to ask about base plate.

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Just looked at my plans and that is changed in pencil form 2 3/4 radius to 3 3/8" radius... Also, on the pic below that, the 1/2" square says that it is 22" and that is crossed out to 6"...... There is also some additions to page 7. Do you have those?

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I bought mine already built, I never could get the time to go to a build, I work overseas, and there wern't plans availible at the time.

The only real issue is the base plate realy needs to be heavier than 1/2", I'd suggest 1" at least, if not 1 1/2". Also after some use the motor base plate starts to break away from the motor houseing. Not a fault of the hammer, but sideways stress on spot welds, the motor manufacture didn't figure on the kinds of side loads a tire uses for the clutch. It's an easy fix if your a good welder, just run a quick bead and a brace and it's fixed. Just keep the heat down, my motor have been runing fine for years after modifiying.

Here's a pic, just use thick steel for the brace and make sure you put most of the heat to the brace, and do it in short sections letting it cool between welding so you don't burn the wires.

I don't know if I would weld on a motor housing. Motors are not cheap and if you burn the varnish off the winding's your at least going to drop HP if not burn it up. And that photo looked like a lot of weld. I have been known to make U bolts out of all-thread and use that to mount the motor. TC
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