JGRAFF

I also built my own forge...I know.....anouther newbie

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Hi everyone, like i said...i also built my own coal forge. But i am noticing a lot of newbies (including myself) speaking up and swinging hammers. That's a good thing right?

Well here it is. I couldn't afford to buy this rivet forge i had my eye on, so i got some materials from work (for free) and had the table at home (not being used). So, i saved about $150 bucks and built my own.

Although, i built it, it's not my design. I got it from doing some reading and research on this forum. It is not quite ready to light but it's close. I do want to find an authentic hand crank blower, i need to fab a trap door on the bottom, and (for my small garage) I want to put it on wheels so i can roll it outside.

O'Yeah, there is my small hammer collection hanging on the rail.

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Thanks!!! I was a professional welder for some time, and have also built a couple hotrods, so, its not my first time fabricating. But it will be my first time blacksmithing.

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Really nice job on the forge! As CurlyGeorge said, "Welcome to the addiction.."

Welcome to your newest "Obsession"!

Glad to see you here, look forward to seeing what you make.

Mark<><

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well i got the casters put on the forge last night. I am a mobile SOB!!! i need to take a trip to an old blacksmith friend of mine to get some coal and i might be lighting the fire this weekend. Pic to come, of course!! HAHA

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you should go into business, making fire pots


If you know someone that would be interested in a fire pot like mine, I would love to make some more.

At first i looked at buying one of the cast ones, but then i saw how much they cost!! WOW!!.....

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If you know someone that would be interested in a fire pot like mine, I would love to make some more.

At first i looked at buying one of the cast ones, but then i saw how much they cost!! WOW!!.....

what would be the price for that firepot?

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what would be the price for that firepot?


I would think about $150 plus shipping depending on what different/extra features you want? Let me know

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I would think about $150 plus shipping depending on what different/extra features you want? Let me know

is that just the firepot or the whole thing and wheeere abouts are you

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is that just the firepot or the whole thing and wheeere abouts are you


That price would be for the fire pot, tuyere, and a ash dump door. If you would want the whole deal (table w/the wall around it, a tool rail, and the fire pot) i think $350 dollars is reasonable. Also, I'm located in Cincinnati, Ohio 45255.

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Hi everyone, like i said...i also built my own coal forge. But i am noticing a lot of newbies (including myself) speaking up and swinging hammers. That's a good thing right?

Well here it is. I couldn't afford to buy this rivet forge i had my eye on, so i got some materials from work (for free) and had the table at home (not being used). So, i saved about $150 bucks and built my own.

Although, i built it, it's not my design. I got it from doing some reading and research on this forum. It is not quite ready to light but it's close. I do want to find an authentic hand crank blower, i need to fab a trap door on the bottom, and (for my small garage) I want to put it on wheels so i can roll it outside.

O'Yeah, there is my small hammer collection hanging on the rail.


nice job of fitting and welding. But with your air inlet all the way on the bottom and with no clinker breaker you are going to spend a lot of time working on keeping your fire breathing. I see you can buy a cast iron pot with clinker breaker for $259.95 here http://www.centaurfo...nfo/CENTVULCAN/

That said I remember a few articles years ago in the Abana magazine that suggested a raised air inlet with space around it that clinker could flow down and keep from plugging up the air. I also remember reading that clinker will stick to a steel pot more readily than cast.

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nice job of fitting and welding. But with your air inlet all the way on the bottom and with no clinker breaker you are going to spend a lot of time working on keeping your fire breathing. I see you can buy a cast iron pot with clinker breaker for $259.95 here http://www.centaurfo...nfo/CENTVULCAN/

That said I remember a few articles years ago in the Abana magazine that suggested a raised air inlet with space around it that clinker could flow down and keep from plugging up the air. I also remember reading that clinker will stick to a steel pot more readily than cast.


All is true. I will probubly spend a little more time cleaning my airways, due to no clinker breaker and steel construction. And i learned about having the air inlet higher after i made the whole thing. If i were to make another, these problems would be addressed. This was the first one i've built, so, I'm glad there are mistakes i can learn from. Mistakes are like stupid questions, (The only stupid question is the one not asked.)

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It's not too late to alter your project. My suggestion would be to cut out your whole grate. Then make a half sphere that will fit in the place of the grate. Drill a hole in the top of the half sphere for your air, then weld into place with the dome and air hole up.

This way the clinker can flow down below the air hole and accumulate there without plugging up the fire. Clinker can be removed like a donut.

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Are clay flower pots usuable?



Two problems. one, it would be too deep. And two, I have a feeling the clay would shatter fairly quickly when the heat rises.

Now, if you could have a shallower pot made of fire brick, that should work.

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flour pot/ fire pot
When I was in graduate school I was away from my shop and lived in a down town house with a small yard. I made a take-down forge using a bowl-shaped, red clay, planter that was about 15 inches diameter at the top and about 6 inches deep. The drain hole was about 1inch diameter so I broke the hole wider- about 3inches diameter, admitting a 3 inch pipe connected to a flange (inside the planter) and a "T" fitting below/outside the planter. The pot rested in a concrete block and the air came from a hair dryer. The bowl cracked in several places so I epoxied wire around the outer circumference to hold it together. The forge worked well enough for a stop-gap.

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