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Little Giant Clutch Material


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I have just aquired a Canadian Giant No. 25 trip hammer, which is very similar to the 25 lb Little Giant.
I need to replace the belting inside the clutch. It presently has two layers of 2-inch wide by 1/8 inch thick
belting, and appears to be original.

Are there different types of transmission belt, or will any old farm machinery belt work?

I remember seeing that stuff at school a few times. I wonder if the principal still has a piece in his office...

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I have just aquired a Canadian Giant No. 25 trip hammer, which is very similar to the 25 lb Little Giant.
I need to replace the belting inside the clutch. It presently has two layers of 2-inch wide by 1/8 inch thick
belting, and appears to be original.

Are there different types of transmission belt, or will any old farm machinery belt work?

I remember seeing that stuff at school a few times. I wonder if the principal still has a piece in his office...


there is a good picture sequence here of replacing (pouring)
new babbit bearings and also putting on new clutch material.

No doubt you could get the right stuff from Sid at Little Giant.

http://www.anvilmag....smith/011f2.htm
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Bob S: Thanks for the link. That's an excellent article. It mentions "7-ply belting", so I will see how that compares to what I can find locally, otherwise I can call Sid. I have seen it listed on his website, but don't know if the clearance in the clutch is the same on the Little Giant and the Canadian Giant. If it is thinner, I can shim it, but if it is too thick, I don't know how much I can sand off without having the belt come apart...or maybe it is fused together internally and that is not even an issue. I found an old snuff box in my junk collection with the exact flat head copper rivets the were used originally.

Sask Mark: Yes, mine is made by Jardine. I know of two others in this area that are up and running. Mine has very little wear and is complete except for a treadle spring, upper die key and the clutch material. Its main problem is heavy rust on the pulley / clutch. After cleaning it up I discovered that the clutch cone shaped ring had a severe crack in it. I thought I could have the clutch turned to remove the deep pitting, but there won't be enough cast iron left to hold it together. On Thursday I am having the ring cut out and replaced with a section of heavy pipe. After the piece of pipe has been installed we will turn the 5 degree taper inside the ring, and hopefully all will be well. I will be replacing all the pins and bolts, but I thnk I will leave the single sided spring adjusment on the toggle links as-is for now.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I've heard a lot of people use harness leather on their clutches. I kept mine dry for the longest time until I got a set of DVDs from Wild Rose Forge, which mentions that you should keep them well oiled. It sure does make a difference in being able to feather your clutch.

Drq.

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Thanks Drq. I found some rubber/canvas belt. A single layer worked well. I tried running it without the toggle links attached, and it seems to work. I get 407 rpm with a 2-1/2 inch pulley on the motor. That is close to the LG 25 design speed or upper limit, so I might try a 2 inch pulley instead to slow it down a bit. I will keep the clutch oiled, but wonder if it will leave a black streak on the ceiling.

Are there any other smiths around Beaverlodge? One of the guys fom our Guild (Earl) moved to the Hythe area a few years ago.

Don

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