Beaudry #7 questions (drive pulley/motor speed etc.)

[Lamey]

Hi All, finally got some time to start setting up my #7. It has the original motor (G.E. 7.5hp, looks like it weighs 1k), and what I believe to be the original drive pulley. The drive pulley is 6", and from all accounts appears to be original to the motor/hammer. While looking through the info that came with my hammer I noticed the drive pulley size on the Beaudry CHAMPION (mine) is listed as 4". The drive pulley listed on the #7 PEERLESS is 6", my guess is that my hammer left the factory with the larger pulley of the PEERLESS.

Here is my question, Should I stay with the factory motor/pulley (yes I can run 3 phase), or should I put a single phase motor (5.5 hp) that I have with a 4" pulley already set up. I guess there is also option #3 which would be to get a 4" pulley made for the original 7.5 hp motor.

This also brings up the discussion of will a 5.5 hp motor operate a #7..... I think it will, as the #7 is the first size that Beaudry stepped up the motor size from 5 to 7.5 hp. The 5.5 I have is a big industrial grade motor with heavy windings/high torque/960 or 1080 rpm, cant remember which right now but definitely one of them.

Hope to start my foundation in a few weeks, will be posting some questions about that as well.

[Dave Hammer]

My advice??? I would use the original motor. If the hammer has been run with it for years with the six inch pulley, it's probably OK. If you want to check, calculate the BPM you get using the 6" pulley and original motor. If you want to slow it down, find another pulley.

[Lamey]

whats the formula for figuring BPM from motor rpm/pulley size etc.

[dkunkler]

whats the formula for figuring BPM from motor rpm/pulley size etc.

Multiply the motor RPM by the motor pulley size and divide by the driven pulley size.
If a jackshaft is involved the driven pulley would be the larger jackshaft pulley and this would calculate the jackshaft RPM. You can then multiply the jackshaft RPM by the smaller jackshaft pulley size and divide by the final pulley size for the final RPM.

[Lamey]

thanks! i will try and get some in process photos up this week.

[SGropp]

My #7 came with a huge 550v 3 ph. 850 rpm 5 hp motor which I'm sure was original to the hammer. Because of the age of the motor, the odd voltage and difficulty of finding a converter to run it, I opted for repowering with a new 7.5 hp 1725 rpm, 220 v single phase motor w/ magnetic starter switch. I used a jackshaft arrangement of 2-1 to get the speed at the drive pulley to the proper 850 rpm.
The motor is mounted up top out of the way and to give enough distance for the double cogged v belts that transfer power from the motor to the jackshaft and drive pulley. The drive pulley is about 3.5. '' in diameter and is the same one that came with the original motor. The large main pulley on the top of the hammer is driven by a 5.5'' wide synthetic flat belt from the drive pulley on the jack shaft. There is a heavy idler pulley on the top side of the belt. The lower side of the flat belt is the pulling side.

This is on a ''motor driven'' hammer with a split main drive pulley and cone clutch. This hammer works very well with this set up, runs the right speed, hits hard or soft with good control.

The original factory motor mount did not allow long stock to be worked the length of the dies without running into the motor. Even though this contradicts the literature, I assume this is the original motor mount as it is a massive casting made to fit the frame, shimmed into alignment with forged steel shims and poured lead packing. This hammer came out of a tool forge that likely only ran short stock . It was fitted with massive flat dies notched and dovetailed to accept matching top and bottom insert dies, so perhaps it was a custom set up from the manufacturer for the original customers application . These hammers show a lot of evidence of hand work and fitting and each one is unique in spite of being built in a factory environment.

Build a proper guard around the belts and jackshaft, those are a definite hazard that you are likely to tangle with only once.

I hope this helps, I think you have the exact same hammer as I do.

[Lamey]

Hi Steve, the factory motor on the #7 should have been a 7.5 hp, and been mounted low enough on the frame not to interfere with any length of work, thats one of the big selling points Beaudry used in there literature.

Im going to definitely stay with the factory motor mount setting, low on the back of the frame, and leaning toward running the 5.5 hp 4" drive. IF that dont work for some reason it wont be hard to put the 7.5 back on.

Will have plenty of time to figure it out, as im going to take the next week to make sure every thing is free in movement, will also flush out all the contact and bearing surfaces before lubing them up etc.

I notice alot of folks have oil cups on there main shaft bearing, mine has zirc fittings, how about yours??

[SGropp]

The factory literature that I have for my hammer clearly states that both the top [ main ] shaft bearing and the crank box bearing are ''chambered for oil''. The only bearing that is designed for a grease fitting or cup [according to the lit. ] is the main drive pulley which runs constantly when the motor is running.

I have a drip oiler installed on the top bearing, set at a pretty good flow and a small oil filler cap in the crank box bearing. I oil everything about every 4 hours with way oil { Vectra 2 ] purchased in bulk from Enco.

The rollers , roller tracks inside the ram, guide ways ,linkages , and idler pulley get oiled on the same schedule as well as the roller arm that is part of the clutch assembly and accessible and visible from the front and side of the hammer.

There does not seem to be a provision for oiling the cone clutch surfaces [ which I assume is made to run wet like a Little Giant ], so I am guessing that it receives the necessary lubrication by oil that drips out the back end of the top main bearing.

Anyway this is how I have mine set up, it's worked well for years. I oil liberally and frequently on the premise that oil is cheaper than parts or downtime.

If I was to improve the design of the hammer, I would eliminate the large access holes in the ram, creating a deep sump that could be filled with oil so that at every stroke the rollers and tracks would be bathed in oil. This seems like the weak link in the design and the part that shows the most wear from use and /or lack of proper lubrication.

[Lamey]

thanks Steve, helpfull info, and your right I was mistaken about the factory motor position and clearance. Mine also prohibits REALLY long pieces from being worked lengthwise in the dies. Still has plenty of room for anything that I will do so its not an issue.

Im wondering now where I can get both a new drive and tenstion pulley made. I am going to stay with this motor most likely, but going to try and find or have made an original 4" drive pulley. Also my "tension" pulley was made of some sort of compressed paper or other similar product that is starting to deteriorate.

I was thinking about just getting this thing up and running "as is", but really have the desire to break it down at least into major components and do a mild "refurbish" before I start using it.

Its in good enough condition that I could probably get by with just checking everything over, plugging in and going ( at least after I have the motor checked out).

Any body else out there running a #7 with less than the 7.5 hp original motor?

[Dave Hammer]

You might look on eBay for ol timey pulleys. I see them there every so often... Search for "flat belt pulley". There are numerous pulleys for sale now (drive and idler).

You can use a sleeve or have the center bored (if there is enough meat in the center) if the bore doesn't match your motor.

[peacock]

Hi Matt. Nice to seee you on here I am really enjoying the Bradley what a great hammer. I have been watching this post hoping I could find out if it is a slack belt or has a clutch before I jumped in. I learned something when I set up the Bradley that might helpful if it is slack belt.

[Lamey]

HI Phil, im so glad that Bradley wound up in your hands. This Beaudry is a factory mechanical clutch, appears to be in good working order throughout. As soon as I get some time I will get some photos up. I have some of when it was up in PA, but no recent ones.

There are no repairs or damage that I can see, and it appears to have been used but taken care of. Do y'all think i should keep the original 6" drive pulley or try and find a 4"? The factory calls for a 4" which would put the BPM at 211, the 6" has it at 317, factory spec. is 225.

[Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver]

The previous owner of my #5 Beaudry had packed some rags in the bottom of the ram cavity. Just keep them drenched with oil and when it's strokin' the rollers pick up some oil from the rags - no splash, worked great. OBTW: the oval hole was required to machine the ramps on the inside of the ram. Think I've seen one that had a round hole, so how did they machine the inside of that?

[Lamey]

you know I look at these hammers in amazement at the engineering, quality of manufacture and general mind set that wen into building such fine machines.

REALLY looking forward to finally getting into this one, I guess its time to pull that huge motor off and take it to my "motor guy" to see if its serviceable.

I thought about doing it myself but dont have much knowledge about electric motors, but hell it cant be that complicated.

[Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver]

Rather than build as jackshaft, I've left the old motor on and used it as a jackshaft! Some times you gotta get creative on mounting a large pulley along with the original, but it can sure make things easy.

[Lamey]

there shouldnt be a reason to go with a jack shaft set up, i can use the original motor as long as its serviceable, as I have 3 phase in my shop, I will either do that or use a single phase motor that I have if the original is fubar. I really want to stay with the original motor mount/set up if at all possible.

will know more in a week or so, till then I am going to be going over the other parts.