StephanFowler

First Fighter

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This is my first fighter style, I'm rather happy with it.

1065 clay hardened in water, (didn't get the ashi I was looking for ;) )
4.5" handle, 5.5" Blade, balances "perfectly" (IMNSHO)
Ebony scales with brass pins and 1/4" thong tube

the touchmark is "CROWBAR" in honor of the gentleman at Bowies hammerin that decided to bestow upon me such righteous moniker :D

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In my mind, a well balanced knife is one in which the the point of balance is directly at the hand guard. Balance points on knives and swords can be more of a personal preferance thing also. Some sword have a balance point that is about 6 inches above the hand guard, with others, the perfect balance point is closer to the hilt. The purpose of the balance point is to keep the sword easily wieldable. For example, if you hold your hammer at the end of the handle and try to swing it, the momentum of the head makes it difficult to control. Flip the hammer over and hold the head, and your speed and control increase greatly. The same principle works for swords and knives. The closer the balance point is to your hand, the wasier the sword or knife is to control. When dealing with swords however, to make the balance point that far down the handle is impractical. The pommel would have to weigh as much as the entire blade to balance it out. As blade length increases, eventually the point is reached where an unbalanced, but lighter sword is preferable.

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Balance on a sword also depends on if you are using it for point work or for "chopping" or for slicing.

Point work---rapiers profits from having the balance near the guard. Chopping/slicing (sabres, broadswords, etc) profits from having the BP out from the guard.

Gotta know how a blade will be used to design it properly! Think how badly a machete would work with the BP by the guard!

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