brianbrazealblacksmith Posted August 29, 2010 Author Share Posted August 29, 2010 Hey Brian, here it is. Not quite as wide as I thought. But anyway its not a Champion. Thats my other hot cut. This one is an ACME. But it is the one I use most. As you can see it has a curved edge. Not quite as curved as yours, and like I said the sides are straight. But it sure cuts hot steel easy. I don't believe that hardy was made intentionally to fit smaller holes than the shank at the base of the shoulders. It would work like mine in a smaller hole though, because it does have a tapered shank. It is common practice to forge a tapered shank to set in the hardy hole prior to setting the shoulders, and I believe it once was common knowledge that a hot cut did not need as much shoulder support as other forging dies. If that hardy would have been made intentionally for smaller holes, they would have chamfored the edges of the shank all the way down and not just where the chamforing shows where they drove it into the larger hardy hole. It does cut better, doesn't? when it sets itself into your 1" hardy hole. I would go ahead and take the hard edge off the rest of the way on the shank so it will fit better in even smaller holes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWHII Posted August 29, 2010 Share Posted August 29, 2010 It will work just fine for fullering and larger forging dies, but for punches and chisels you'd be better of with the H13 under a hydraulic press. Thanks Brian. I am going to give it a shot and try it. I am a little desprite right now for some tooling and this way all I have to waist is time. What do you think a good quench would be for these steels? If you had to choose one type of these steels which one would you choose? I also have some sucker rod and have access to some drill rod. I understand some drill rod can be H13? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted August 29, 2010 Author Share Posted August 29, 2010 Thanks Brian. I am going to give it a shot and try it. I am a little desprite right now for some tooling and this way all I have to waist is time. What do you think a good quench would be for these steels? If you had to choose one type of these steels which one would you choose? I also have some sucker rod and have access to some drill rod. I understand some drill rod can be H13? I do not usually harden large hot forging dies. I just leave them as forged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K. Bryan Morgan Posted August 30, 2010 Share Posted August 30, 2010 I would go ahead and take the hard edge off the rest of the way on the shank so it will fit better in even smaller holes. Thank you for the information Brian. I'll do just that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avadon Posted August 30, 2010 Share Posted August 30, 2010 How are you making the shanks on these? Do you just heat and hammer the work into the hardy hole? Or are you trying to square this up by hammer and eyeball for a relative fit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tubbe Posted August 30, 2010 Share Posted August 30, 2010 Avadon, Mark Aspery has a really nice video on this topic:Forging a bottom swage & making a small swage block Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted August 30, 2010 Author Share Posted August 30, 2010 How are you making the shanks on these? Do you just heat and hammer the work into the hardy hole? Or are you trying to square this up by hammer and eyeball for a relative fit? Avadon, I used three different methods for those hardy tools, and I don't have time this morhing to go into it. I have a class this morning. I'll get back with you later. Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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