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Hofi hammer or Hofi style hammer from decent maker?


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Hi, All. I have a 3lb Hofi Cast hammer, which I love. I find myself with the need for a smaller/lighter hammer for various reasons. This hammer will complement my 3# so I would like the same style. I'm looking for a 2 to 2-1/4#. Hofi makes a 2.2 which would be great but are not readily available in the states. There are a few people making Hofi style hammers. Brent Bailey will make whatever weight I like and the others are limited to what they stock. Any thoughts?

http://www.nanricsto...OSS-PEIN/Detail

http://www.blacksmit...159686&detail=1

Brent Bailey http://www.brentbaileyforge.com/ will also make one, though it's not listed on his site. (see attached pic)

post-11216-075873700 1279805558_thumb.jp

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I would say to go with the Brent Bailey, he does such clean work. Look at the eyes on some of the other hammers they fill them with goo (not what I look for in a hammer) I want a handle that fits

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I also suggest the Bailey hammer. 2 reasons- hand made by him, supports the smith and they are truly great hammers!!!

Clinton- The goo you are talking about is for vibration control AND as the handle expands and contracts during the normal seasons, it won't come loose like so many others do, including Brent's.

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I also recommend a B Brent Bailey hammer. His quality is unbeatable and if there was such a thing as perfection his work is it.

Fe-wood: Do you know what that goo is, Or does anyone know how to keep handles tight in the summer heat? Soaking in water is a bad idea.
Thanks
Rob

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I also recommend a B Brent Bailey hammer. His quality is unbeatable and if there was such a thing as perfection his work is it.

Fe-wood: Do you know what that goo is, Or does anyone know how to keep handles tight in the summer heat? Soaking in water is a bad idea.
Thanks
Rob

Thanks for the input all. If I can't get a Hofi I will go with BB.

The goo is a type glue. Here's a post from Hofi from a different thread about wheather to wedge or not:

The glue that I am useing to hendle the hammer is SIKAFLES 11 FC AND I ONLY glue THE HANDLES AND NEVER WEDGE.
I glued already hundreds of hammers in many sizes ans none of them went loos.
the hammer eye is having a duble taperd cone (x) to the middle of the eye 3 degrees.
on the handle on the part that goes into the eye I grind surretions all around that hold the glue much better.
beffor smearing the glue in the eye I clean the eye with thinner to take away any oily remanents for better glueing
Hofi
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I also recommend a B Brent Bailey hammer. His quality is unbeatable and if there was such a thing as perfection his work is it.

Fe-wood: Do you know what that goo is, Or does anyone know how to keep handles tight in the summer heat? Soaking in water is a bad idea.
Thanks
Rob


If you can figure out how to get in touch with Glen then he has the same stuff that Hofi uses (Sika-flex?).He can sell it to you if he has any on hand and if you can contact him,last time I tried he wasn`t receiving messages for some reason.
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I also recommend a B Brent Bailey hammer. His quality is unbeatable and if there was such a thing as perfection his work is it.

Fe-wood: Do you know what that goo is, Or does anyone know how to keep handles tight in the summer heat? Soaking in water is a bad idea.
Thanks
Rob


Soaking your hammer in atifreeze works real well, soak for only a couple of hours because it will wick up the handle if left too long (I learned this from Tom Clark)
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Thank you clinton and ofafeather, I will do a each to a few hammers and watch what happens. soaking in oil and antifreeze is easier than re-handling with the sikaflex 11fc. It will be over 100F for a few months so should be a good test.
Rob

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  • 3 months later...

Guys I have been using handles that are glued as my teacher Hofi and my friend and fellow smith Arnon have been using for years. We find that it is huge advantage first It is not glue but a flexible rubber sealer Sika Flex. You fit your handle and then as Hofi does you grind a groove the around the top of the handle then you glue and let it set. Being in the Northwest in the wet handles become loose usually within a year. I have had these handles as long as 8 years and in every case the handle failed first. Now the best part you simply heat the eye portion of the head when a handle breaks with a small torch and the old handle falls out and you simply glue a new one in!

I am telling Farriers who buy my hammers to glue their handles in and all of mine that I handle are prepared this way. No more soaking hammers.

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I have a Hofi style hammer from a reputable US maker and the head is loose. I've had it quite a while, so I'm not complaining. Use of the word "never" in capital letters just gets my goat.

It's not too bad yet and I will probably do the authorized official glue/no wedge thing when it needs replacing.

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I have three "hofi style" hammers from Tom Clark and they are very nice. I have one Hofi hammer from Big Blue. I expected a better finish for the price. But I ordered the forging. Seems the castings are nicer. I just got a 5# kinda sorta hofi style from Brent and its to die for. Its not only that his hammers are so well manufactured, he has an eye for form and every one of his hammers is a beautiful shape.

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Thanks for the input all. If I can't get a Hofi I will go with BB.

The goo is a type glue. Here's a post from Hofi from a different thread about wheather to wedge or not:

The glue that I am useing to hendle the hammer is SIKAFLES 11 FC AND I ONLY glue THE HANDLES AND NEVER WEDGE.
I glued already hundreds of hammers in many sizes ans none of them went loos.
the hammer eye is having a duble taperd cone (x) to the middle of the eye 3 degrees.
on the handle on the part that goes into the eye I grind surretions all around that hold the glue much better.
beffor smearing the glue in the eye I clean the eye with thinner to take away any oily remanents for better glueing
Hofi

Just a small update. It is sikaflex 11 FC
Ken
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I would say to go with the Brent Bailey, he does such clean work. Look at the eyes on some of the other hammers they fill them with goo (not what I look for in a hammer) I want a handle that fits

Just a thought. How much of your car/truck is goo/glued together? How about your house? Ever had a fitted wedged handle fail? Took a triple wedged soaked hammer to school once. Another student borrowed it. 2nd heat head flew off.
My gooed handles are still tight and shock mounted. My wedged handles have all been re done atleast twice in the same time.(Hate it when the go devil head launchs on the up stroke)
Ken.
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Two words together guaranteed to start an argument are "Czech hammer". I bought up Blacksmiths depot's entire stock of czech hammer heads. I didn't need handles as I have a box full here. I wanted several hammers for my students here. They seem a very good hammer at a reasonable price. I got a couple of Big Blu slash peins- a right and a left and am very happy with those.

I think I would say try as many as you can lay hands on and see which you like.

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If you want a " hofi " clone " Richards the bloke , ave 1 of his 2 lb's , such a " joy " ta use . Just like the rest of Richards hammers ( btw mate , still ave ta fight ppl ta get back that double dia pein they like it that much )

http://www.dancingfr...rs%20Hammer.JPG

http://www.dancingfr...s%20Hammer3.JPG

Richards hammer page ....
http://www.dancingfr.../hammers01.html


Dale Russell

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Soaking your hammer in atifreeze works real well, soak for only a couple of hours because it will wick up the handle if left too long (I learned this from Tom Clark)


I use the same. I do my tools twice a year. Here in the desert they dry out fast and I have found it to be the best. I have friends who use penetrol to soak there tools and they say it works better but I have not tried it yet.
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A properly fitted handle in a properly made hammer head will not come loose and glue is not needed....just the traditional wedges. Everything else is just gloss on the way it should be done.

I have to agree with this. I have used handled tools my whole life on a costant basis. Since I was a little boy working for my uncle in his woodworking shop. I split and sold shakes, tobacco sticks, cut bean poles, ect,ect since I was probably 8 years old. By the time I was 11 years old I made my own handles and learned early on how to replace them. I mostly buy replacement handles now but if its fit right and wedged tight it wont come off. The handle should break first..
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