thingmaker3 Posted September 29, 2010 Share Posted September 29, 2010 The original question on soaking was related to drawing not austenizing. It was? Golly. I read it as dunking the chisel in anti-sieze between whacks while in use. Don't they spray down H13 dies with water in industrial use? (That's "use," not "HT.") Or is that something other than water? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted September 30, 2010 Share Posted September 30, 2010 It was? Golly. I read it as dunking the chisel in anti-sieze between whacks while in use. Don't they spray down H13 dies with water in industrial use? (That's "use," not "HT.") Or is that something other than water? Not the original question, but "the original question on soaking". Yep, that's the way I've always seen it done and done myself. H-13 is very resistant to "micro cracking" and heat checking. And the distinction between cooling and quenching a big one. I've run piercing tools that heated and were water cooled for more than 2,000 cycles a day for a week. H-13 held up wonderful for this. Tried M-2 and It was crazy cracked in a couple hours, looked like wrinkle finish paint. We used a colloidal graphite water solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mainely,Bob Posted September 30, 2010 Share Posted September 30, 2010 My Carpenter Tool Steel book says explicitly that H13 can be water cooled in use without harming the tool. They wouldn't say that unless they were very, very certain. Very useful info there.Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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