Applying wax to finished pieces

[walkerironworks84]

Hey guys,I know that many in the forum apply beeswax to finished pieces. My question is how is it applied? Is it brushed on? Do you melt the wax and put the piece in it? Do you rub it on when the piece still has some heat to it? Any help would be great.

[Spears]

I use a beeswax/turpentine mix. After the mixture solidifies, the result is a soft paste that I store in a semi-air tight container. This mix lasts a long time but will eventually harden up like the original beeswax with the evaporation of some of the turpentine. I heat the part with a torch or hold it in front of my forge and make it hot to the touch but not changing color. I use a rag for the "easy to get to" large surface areas and a small brush for the nooks and cracks. I bought a box of those little metal throw away brushes from Harbor fright and they work fine. I've been well complimented by many on the looks of this finish, but it won't quite hold up to outdoor weathering as well as some others. Hope this helps with your endeavors. Regards, Spears.

[SoCal Dave]

If possible, I heat the piece up just a little and apply the bees wax. I brake off a piece of bees wax from a larger block I have and apply it so it melts onto the metal.

[Naz]

My recipe is 1/3 Beeswax, 1/3 boiled linseed oil (can be baught at hardware store), and 1/3 white spirit (or turpentine). I'm not sure what the boiled linseed oil does or doesn't do but I'm quite satisfied with the results.
I also apply when the metal is hot to the touch but not too hot as this burns the finish leaving it sticky and brown.
This is good for inside only.

Good luck !
Naz

[Pat Roy]

I used to apply parafin was or boiled linseed oil to my parts when quite warm. I've always been pleased with the results. Then I was forging with a friend and he had a mix of beeswas, turpentine and BLO. I liked the scent it gives when applied. I mixed some up along with a little Japan dryer which I read about somewhere. Everyone likes the smell of it but I was disappointed that it didn't stay somewhat liquid. I either have to heat it up to liquify or use it in solid junks like the was of before. Should I increase the percentage of the liquid components?

[Steve Sells]

Mr NAZ.. how hot to you get the wood before waxing? hot to the touch should burn the handle bad, how do you warm the handles with out burning them? this IS the knife section, and I do not advise waxing the blades. on the other hand if our poster was not paying attention and posted his query here, rather than where it would apply to ironwork...

this IS the knife section. With normal paste wax there is no need to heat the finished handle. using bees wax you may wish to warm ( 100F or so) to get it more pliable. do NOT mix it with any hydrocarbons first.

[Naz]

Mr NAZ.. how hot to you get the wood before waxing? hot to the touch should burn the handle bad, how do you warm the handles with out burning them? this IS the knife section, and I do not advise waxing the blades. on the other hand if our poster was not paying attention and posted his query here, rather than where it would apply to ironwork...

this IS the knife section. With normal paste wax there is no need to heat the finished handle. using bees wax you may wish to warm ( 100F or so) to get it more pliable. do NOT mix it with any hydrocarbons first.

Steeve, you're absolutely right.
I didn't realize the post was in the knife section, the mix I use which is a common one works great for ironwork but I never made a knife and have no clue on what finish to use on them.

Sorry, my error !

Naz

[tomhw]

Chapstick.