jmeineke Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 I'm in the middle of working on a broken anvil and was pretty happy with the results of some welding / grinding. I'm thinking about doing the same thing to the horn and cutting table my 309 lb Arm & Hammer. My question is, will I be decreasing the value of it if I do? Also, what do you all think about repairing the edge chips on the faceplate of the A&H with some Stoody 2110? My inclination is to leave the faceplate alone, but I thought it wouldn't hurt to get some opinions. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 If that is your *using* anvil and you think you have the chops to improve it for your use. Then why do you care about re-sale value? Generally I am on the side of "First: Do No Harm!" However horns are often better if smoothed. If you are really worried about resale; make sure the rod you use is a good colour match to the anvil face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 IMHO, its about how much you use it and need to clean it up. I had a PW with awful edges. See post Read and understand Rob Gunters tutorial in my post. It worked really well for me. My only regret is that I didn't use the Stoody 1105 for the last passes. I think the result would have been better and the metal harder. Its a lot of work. In my case it was worth it, see pictures of before and after. If you do it take your time and do it right- then it will be worth it :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmeineke Posted May 6, 2010 Author Share Posted May 6, 2010 IMHO, its about how much you use it and need to clean it up. I had a PW with awful edges. See post http://www.iforgeiro..._1&#entry162456 Read and understand Rob Gunters tutorial in my post. It worked really well for me. My only regret is that I didn't use the Stoody 1105 for the last passes. I think the result would have been better and the metal harder. Its a lot of work. In my case it was worth it, see pictures of before and after. If you do it take your time and do it right- then it will be worth it Looks like you did a nice job - the before and after pic really tells it all. Did you heat treat the face when you were done with it? My concern about doing anything at all with the face, or the edges of it, is that (as I understand it) you end up softening the plate around the heat affected zone (HAZ). I've read Rob's tutorial, but it almost sounds like he's talking about going all the way down to the body to do the build up. I don't really see anything about fixing a chip in the plate, but I'm assuming if it's small enough you could just do a pass or two of 2110. Also, I don't quite understand why 2110 is used as the base and 1105 for the final pass - seems like it should be the other way around. The Stoody 1105 has lower RC hardness rating and the 21 series has an RC hardness in the 50's and is rated excellent for impact resistance (as opposed to moderate for 1105). Maybe someone on here can shed some light on why you would use 2110 as the base and 1105 as the cap?Stoody 1105 (http://www.thermadyn...t_19_Cse002.pdf) Abrasion Resistance: ModerateImpact Resistance: Moderate Hardness on 1045 Steel: HRC 38 – 42 Magnetic Yes Surface Cross Checks No Machinability Yes Deposit Layers Up to 4 Hot Wear Applications Up to 600°FStoody 2110 (http://www.thermadyn...t_34_Mne006.pdf) Abrasion Resistance GoodImpact Resistance Excellent Hardness On Carbon Steel – As Deposited BHN 200 On Carbon Steel – Work Hardened HRC 48 – 53 On Manganese Steel – As Deposited BHN 210 On Manganese Steel – Work Hardened HRC 50 – 55 Magnetic No Surface Cross Checks No Deposit Layers Unlimited Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmeineke Posted May 6, 2010 Author Share Posted May 6, 2010 If that is your *using* anvil and you think you have the chops to improve it for your use. Then why do you care about re-sale value? Generally I am on the side of "First: Do No Harm!" However horns are often better if smoothed. If you are really worried about resale; make sure the rod you use is a good colour match to the anvil face. Guess it's just a general principle - I don't want to decrease the value of anything I own. Someday it will belong to my kids, or it may have to be sold if there were a job loss, etc. You never know... There's also the possibility of upgrading to a better anvil, in which case selling what one already has becomes a factor. I'm with you, though - "first, do no harm," and that's why I started this thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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