Lincoln AC/DC 225/125 Welding Lead Replacement

[jmeineke]

Anyone ever replaced / upgraded the welding leads (stinger and ground) on a Lincoln AC/DC 225/125 machine? I just bought one last week but it needs to have the leads replaced.

Last night I started unscrewed everything that looked like it needed to be taken off. I got it down to the knobs that stick out of the machine but couldn't figure out how to get them detached from the front of the case (Note - I got the dials off, but the 'nubs' that stick out of the machine would not push back through the holes. I didn't want to force anything).

Anyone have any advice / tips on how to get the main part of the case off?

[Mainely,Bob]

Best way to handle that is to NOT disassemble the case.etc.
Just cut the leads to about a 1 foot length and install female quick disconnects onto the piece that`s left.You attach the male end to your new lead.

If you are not sure how to even get the case apart then your best bet for dealing with anything inside is to either bring it to a welding supply/service store or at the very least a trusted individual who can walk you thru this and has done it before with good results.That would NOT be your pal Bubba from high school,who can figure anything out.
Bubba is the poster child for false economy.

[jmeineke]

Nah, I'm not worried about it. I'm sure that once I get the case off I'll be fine. I'd rather just put the longer leads on than do quick disconnects. I'll be okay with the electronics once I'm inside, but thanks for your concern.

I had everything disassembled to the point where the front of the case moved freely from the main transformer and diode unit - the only thing I got stuck on was getting those knobs free of the main housing. Once those are out, the whole front should come off (the power switch has been disconnected as well as the metal strain relief plate that holds the stinger and ground leads).

I've put everything back together for now and will use it with the shorter leads, but if anyone can offer some real help on this one I'd appreciate it. I'm sure someone on here can fill me in.

[pkrankow]

http://content.lincolnelectric.com//pdfs/products/navigator/im/IM237.pdf
there are some exploded diagrams on page 16 and 17
Phil

[jmeineke]

http://content.linco...or/im/IM237.pdf
there are some exploded diagrams on page 16 and 17
Phil

Thanks. The manual on Lincoln's website was the first thing I looked at too, but they don't show anything holding those selector switches in place.

Anyhow, I thought that once I removed the bolts that hold the plate that the choke and the rectifier assembly sit on I would be in good shape... No such luck.

[Dragons lair]

Nah, I'm not worried about it. I'm sure that once I get the case off I'll be fine. I'd rather just put the longer leads on than do quick disconnects. I'll be okay with the electronics once I'm inside, but thanks for your concern.

I had everything disassembled to the point where the front of the case moved freely from the main transformer and diode unit - the only thing I got stuck on was getting those knobs free of the main housing. Once those are out, the whole front should come off (the power switch has been disconnected as well as the metal strain relief plate that holds the stinger and ground leads).

I've put everything back together for now and will use it with the shorter leads, but if anyone can offer some real help on this one I'd appreciate it. I'm sure someone on here can fill me in.

Son ya got some real help. Put on the quick disconnects. After 40 yrs I got smart enough
to do that to both my Tig and Mig. Have them set up short and long. If I need to go outside
disconect the ground at the tig connect it to the end of the mig ground. Now I got 25 feet.
Ken

[jmeineke]

Son ya got some real help. Put on the quick disconnects. After 40 yrs I got smart enough
to do that to both my Tig and Mig. Have them set up short and long. If I need to go outside
disconect the ground at the tig connect it to the end of the mig ground. Now I got 25 feet.
Ken

I don't disagree with QD's being a viable option and I'm not saying it's a bad idea - It's just not the answer to the question I asked. Right now I'm stuck with what I have to work with - some cable, a stinger and a ground clamp. I can add QD's later on down the road but I can't afford them right now. The least expensive option is to work with what I have.

[Mills]

I have a newer version of that machine. it has an aluminum core. I wanted to put on longer leads but to do that is above me. I have tried to solder/braze Al with little success. If your machine is like mine then that is what you face once your in there. As for getting in there, I eventually found the way but don't remeber any secret widgets to warn you about. I just kept at it.

[jmeineke]

I have a newer version of that machine. it has an aluminum core. I wanted to put on longer leads but to do that is above me. I have tried to solder/braze Al with little success. If your machine is like mine then that is what you face once your in there. As for getting in there, I eventually found the way but don't remeber any secret widgets to warn you about. I just kept at it.

Thanks for the info. Mine is an older machine, so I don't know exactly how the leads are wired in just yet. If they are brazed on, I'm not going to mess with it. If they are bolted down, I can handle that.

Last night while I was lying in bed wondering how the heck they could be held in, I had a "slap myself on the forehead" moment - I never removed the faceplate! I'm guessing the mounting screws for the dials are under it. If not, I'll probably just leave it be and start saving up for some QD's.

[Dragons lair]

Another thing to look for is spot welded studs holding things from the back side.
Everything I have now has the lugs on the outside.
Ken

[clinton]

I took the cover off an ac machine in order to replace the cord, and I think there was an access panel in the back if I remember right, the welder is in 29 palms now or I would go look at it again, try looking for another way in besides the front cover welders need to be cleaned out with air and there must be a way to remove the sheet metal to do that maintenance, which you should do when you are in there, just blow out all the dust, be careful not to spin the fan with the air and beware of the undischarged capacitor

[jmeineke]

I took the cover off an ac machine in order to replace the cord, and I think there was an access panel in the back if I remember right, the welder is in 29 palms now or I would go look at it again, try looking for another way in besides the front cover welders need to be cleaned out with air and there must be a way to remove the sheet metal to do that maintenance, which you should do when you are in there, just blow out all the dust, be careful not to spin the fan with the air and beware of the undischarged capacitor

Yeah, I had the back panel off and blew out what I could wiped off what wouldn't blow away (there was a thin layer of 'caked on' stuff in it). I wiped down the diode assembly heatsinks too.

I have everything put back together and haven't re-attempted to take it apart again or take off the face plate. I'll probably look at it again in a few weeks after I finish up some other things that need to get done.