Fe-Wood Posted March 15, 2010 Share Posted March 15, 2010 I am getting ready to buy some Pewter to spin into goblets and want to make a "nice" set. I turned these stems without doing any drawings before hand. I just went with what I thought would look good at the time. I may go exotic on the Pewter set, using Ebony for the stem and base and Ivory for the white ring. So, Which one do you like and why? Or should I chuck it all and use another approach? Thanks for your input! The 4 in the same photo are 18g steel the other 2 are Copper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted March 15, 2010 Share Posted March 15, 2010 I like the 4th in the 3 rd photo. It seems to be a pleasant continuation, and looks taller even though it isn't. The 1st and 3rd in that photo get a negative vote, they do not fit with the vessel because they seem inappropriately angular against the curve. Generally good designs, I am sure that you will have a good result when you settle on the design. I have made a few things "freehand" (Free form?) then decided which I would replicate or base a final design on before. It is fun if you have the time! Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted March 15, 2010 Share Posted March 15, 2010 I like the one in the first picture best though the one on the far right of the last pic is very nearly as nice. I can't tell you why... just instinctive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chyancarrek Posted March 15, 2010 Share Posted March 15, 2010 Hey Fe, The 3rd from the left in the pic of 4 gets my vote - When I look at all four before enlarging the photo, I see the stem as a better fit compared to the others. It seems a bit more balanced overall, with a touch more grace. The flare at the bottom gives a nice weight to the bottom and the cut-line before it goes into the base compliments the rim of the cup without being over detailed. My only suggestion in regards to shape would be to reduce the flare of the lower taper just a smidgeon. I'm not too keen on the blonde-wood contrast as it seems to break the flow of the stem. Are you going to use all ebony on the final version? No matter which you choose - you've done some really nice work - I can't wait to see the final version!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Dean Posted March 15, 2010 Share Posted March 15, 2010 Tuff choices...My choices would be #1 but with the white accent ring of #3. But then I like all of them too. You better show the finished work. And yes! go with the Ebony and ivory for sure! Nice work as usual too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstermetal Posted March 15, 2010 Share Posted March 15, 2010 Hey Fe, The 3rd from the left in the pic of 4 gets my vote - When I look at all four before enlarging the photo, I see the stem as a better fit compared to the others. It seems a bit more balanced overall, with a touch more grace. The flare at the bottom gives a nice weight to the bottom and the cut-line before it goes into the base compliments the rim of the cup without being over detailed. My only suggestion in regards to shape would be to reduce the flare of the lower taper just a smidgeon. I'm not too keen on the blonde-wood contrast as it seems to break the flow of the stem. Are you going to use all ebony on the final version? No matter which you choose - you've done some really nice work - I can't wait to see the final version!! I am a second vote for the #3 in the third photo.... At first I didn't like it as well as some of the others but the more I looked the more "right" it looked. Balance, scale and style... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted March 15, 2010 Share Posted March 15, 2010 On looks I would say 1st and last. Both of these appear to be better to hold onto,wider at the top-skinnier at the base, and that is my other point. To make a final determination I would have to hold them. It doesn't matter how it looks if it doesn't feel right in the hands. How is the balance from top to bottom? Someday I will have to try this. I have a small bench top spinning lathe that my Dad got out of a high school that was closing the shop class. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mainely,Bob Posted March 15, 2010 Share Posted March 15, 2010 Since you have "spun up" a number of test pieces I`d like to suggest a turner`s trick for assessing form.Take one of the bells and paint it and the test stems flat black.(you may be able to Photoshop this too)then try the painted bell on all the blacked out test stems. What having everything one flat color does is let you look at the total form and see how it looks as a whole without any breaks or color changes to distract your eye.You see the profile clearly and what works or needs attention. The two pics I liked were the first pic and the 3rd from the left in the pic of 4 would be good if you cut the stem out and flipped it.The reason I suggest flipping the stem is that it looks as though it would be a better fit if the top diameter was slightly larger to make a smoother transition from then returning curve of the bell and the bottom diameter would transition better into the base if it was slightly smaller than it is now.I also think any color change it the wood might look better at the transition from wood to metal. The last in the pic of 4 would work too if the white wood bead was at the top and the bead at the bottom of the stem was the same wood and proportionately smaller for the same reasons. One of the reasons I liked the stem shapes was because they look "comfortable" and user friendly. One last suggestion,try a sweeping curve thru the base instead of trying to make two planes meet. If you feel it needs a beak in that curve or a detail then mark off 2 lines with a pencil first to define the placement of a cove or bead.The curve is what you`re looking for,the detail should fit within the curve and not interrupt that curve`s flow.If you have mahogany spindles large enough you might also try making the base and stem from one piece of wood and see how you like the uninterrupted grain thru the whole wood piece.That change in grain may be why you felt you needed that contrasting wood to break that transition. It`s somtimes been helpful to me to think of the grain in wood as being like texture on steel. Hope this helped and didn`t just muddy the waters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted March 15, 2010 Author Share Posted March 15, 2010 Wow- Thanks everyone for such great insights and suggestions My tally so far- in order of appearance from left to right and 1 through 6 #1 get the most votes so far with 4- this is the first one I made and is a one piece design. #2 gets 0 #3 gets 0 #4 gets 0 #5 gets 3 and #6 gets 2 I would respond to every post on a individual basis but I don't want this to get to long, so, with that said- I am going to try several of the suggestions and continue to "play" with these designs. They don't take to long to make and are very satisfying. I did some other pieces using some of the points brought up about transition woods and sweeping curves. I have included a couple pictures of them. I found the "one piece" design a little simple and using the un-interrupted sweep didn't "balance" with the spun part. I feel the bottom has to have significant complexity to offset the size and weight of the top. I am interested in your opinions on this. One of my major criticisms about the perfection of industrialism is the loss of what things feel like in the hand of the user and the grace of line. Snap-On Tools VS Craftsmen Tools so to speak. Biggun- I am going to humbly offer to take that Lathe off your hands and save you the life altering temptation to try spinning. I hope more people pipe in with comments, even ones about not liking some aspect. It is all very helpful for broadening ones perspective Thanks :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mainely,Bob Posted March 15, 2010 Share Posted March 15, 2010 When I suggested a sweeping curve on the base I was talking about the base below the white wood beads on the work in the grouping of 4 pic,rather than a sweeping curve thru the base AND stem ending at the bell. The base would be the large diameter piece that rests on the table and has the grain running horizontal in the pics. The stem would be the vertical grained thinner section above the white wood and ending at the spun bell. Hope I did a better job of explaining it this time.Perhaps I should have said foot instead of base. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted March 16, 2010 Share Posted March 16, 2010 Sometimes less is more, there is grace in simplicity. Try not to get too hung up on having ribs,grooves,etc. Form follows function. Make a goblet that feels good in the hand, and on the lips. A lot of times I will close my eyes and let my hands tell me what I need to do when working on something. I have used various forks, spoons, glasses that made me wonder "What was this designer thinking?" as I am dribbling my drink/food down my chin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mainely,Bob Posted March 16, 2010 Share Posted March 16, 2010 Sometimes less is more, there is grace in simplicity. Try not to get too hung up on having ribs,grooves,etc. Form follows function. Make a goblet that feels good in the hand, and on the lips. A lot of times I will close my eyes and let my hands tell me what I need to do when working on something. I have used various forks, spoons, glasses that made me wonder "What was this designer thinking?" as I am dribbling my drink/food down my chin. When I turn bowls my hands(the good one at least) tell me more about if I`ve got a fair curve than my eyes will. Likewise if I`m making a handle for a tool I let my hand tell me what size and details to put in it. Some look at my tools and think they`re weird.I tell them to pick them up and use them.Suddenly they`re not so weird. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragons lair Posted March 16, 2010 Share Posted March 16, 2010 Come on where is the Great Bircher on this one. I think Frosty has the spinning background to chime in here. I never done,did, or tried it. Ill go sit inna corner now. Ken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted March 16, 2010 Author Share Posted March 16, 2010 I think I understand what your saying about the base MBob I completely agree on the feel of the product being very important. Seems I read somewhere that a finger tip can tell the difference in surface down to a .oo2 variation or more. as I write this... I'm thinking WAY more. For me at this point, I'm more into visual form over function. (of course I wouldn't consider making something that didn't work, I'll leave that for the cheep imports) I am hoping to make something that is visually very pleasing, has gentle movement with-in the balanced points of interest and a complexity that is comfortable to the eye. Something like the fine wine that I hope to drink out of these goblets- MMMmmm thats good! I'm not sure why, it just is! That sort of thing Thanks again guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRobb Posted March 25, 2010 Share Posted March 25, 2010 I like the first one best and the 6th one next. I think the lines flow better on the first. Just my 2 cents. I like your work on these. You are quite talented and have a good eye. Please keep posting your progress. I really need to try this sometime. Mitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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