JHCC Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 Interesting idea. Might be worth a try. A mild cutting plate on an 1.5" stem to fit my striking anvil/portable hole might work, too. On the other hand, my treadle hammer is set up with my main anvil, and that's where I do a lot of heavy-duty splitting (tong reins, for example). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 It would work. For me it's just easier to have a cutting plate for on my anvil. It takes up less realestate and its already where I am working at instead of taking more steps with the hot metal to get to another spot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anvil Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 Here's my two cents. First, unless you have a substandard anvil, your anvil face should not be in jeopardy. Your tool is the problem. I've used, and still do use both a thick copper plate and/or any spare piece of mild steel laying around close. They both work fine. Thus,,. KISS applies! Keep it simple, there is no reason to make a saddle cut off plate. Just more stuff to keep track of. Without a saddle, it's quieter cutting because you can feel when the anvil is under your chisel and keep the vibration under control. Also, no matter what, when you use a cut off plate saddled or not, when you strike or cut into anything, it will draw out, bend, twist, or any other thing you can imagine to keep it from laying flat on your anvil face,,, thus the noise. If this happens, it's a quick matter to level it on your anvil, then continue. Not so easy if you make a saddle. Shoot, two cents,,, I should get a nickle back in change for this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockstar.esq Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 anvil, You're making some good points however I suspect your solution is driven by how you work. Saddles are less likely to get knocked clean off the anvil surface when you're dealing with heavy or awkward stock and a striker. It seems like you could punch or drill a hole such that they could run a bolt through the cutting plate and the pritchel hole. If it were 1/4" or 3/8" bolts, you could use uni-strut nuts that have a captive spring. The spring would help to accommodate any odd angles on the underside of the pritchel hole and the large rectangular nut is as easy to use as a wingnut. That wouldn't silence the noise, but it would allow the plate to get rotated over when tool edge contact is imminent. Alternately, a plate with eye bolts on the corners might be used with bungee straps to the stand/stump. Chain could also be used with one side tied off, and the other with a foot loop or weight to hold it down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meadowgrove Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 Anvil, this is how you remind me... Absolutely no "Nickle back" on a metal forum! (...I'll get me coat) I'd say a saddle is hefty important especially for us noobs. I wouldn't want to risk marring my anvil face due beginner's enthusiastic inaccuracy... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 Before I welded the second side on the saddle shown above, I would use my chain hold-down to keep it in place. The second side (making it a true saddle) works a LOT better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anvil Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 Sorry, I'll stick with the kiss principal. Not meaning to argue, because you should use whatever tools and in any configuration you choose that suits you. Lol, my striker(a rare deal this day and age for any of us, truth be known) will strike how I teach him, and there will be no reason for a cut off plate. And again, no matter what, as soon as you strike your cut off plate, even Indirectly, it will draw out. Now it will no longer lay flat on your anvil face. This means every blow you make, your tool will jump and this Increases the chance of those danged double cut marks on your work. This applies especially if you secure your plate mechanically to your anvil. Here's an example of a simple cut corner. However there were a danged lot of brackets. This was one of my first jobs. I can't seem to upload more than one. This was 30 or so years ago. 3/8"*4" angle and 4"X8" flat plate. Probably 50+ brackets. I can't remember. Note the "beginner" barely champfered edges... Hot oil finish and still no rust. If I had used either a saddled cut off plate, or one that was mechanically fastened,,, I'd still be working on it!! Lol, seriously, actually, after say 3 or 4 brackets or flat plates, I'd be losing time dressing my cutoff plates made as you guys suggest. I used an 8# hammer and my first handled and curved hot cut made from a railroad cold cut. Still got it. 2 hours ago, Meadowgrove said: . I wouldn't want to risk marring my anvil face due beginner's enthusiastic inaccuracy As I said, your cut off plate is to protect your hot/cold cut from losing it's edge, not your anvil, unless you have a pretty poor anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anvil Posted July 10, 2018 Share Posted July 10, 2018 And one more pic,,, a little finer work for hot cutting. A herd of butterflies that landed on my anvil. I tried to post this before but no luck. Same hot cut and two more to get the curves I wanted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted July 10, 2018 Share Posted July 10, 2018 When you change punch lube, a better lube can allow the chisel to go through more metal easier and endanger the anvil face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted July 10, 2018 Share Posted July 10, 2018 Warm butter or cold? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anvil Posted July 10, 2018 Share Posted July 10, 2018 by the way, i used a saddled cut plate for quite a while. that bracket job was the one that got me looking for a better way. and i still consider ways of mechanically attaching things to my anvil,, but so far those attempts dont seem to work for me. there are reasons why i stick to the KISS Principal. ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 I’ve added two layers of inner tube rubber to the underside of the saddle, held to both the metal and each other with some beads of silicone. (The plastic wrap is to keep any stray silicone from sticking to the anvil, and the coffee can is full of printers’ lead to weigh the saddle down while curing.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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