John B Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 Client requested if I could make a simple doorknocker for her cottage in Wales, I gave him a wink, to greet the kids, his tail is a squat ball welded on and formed to shape, and will strike on top of one of the coach screws Coach screws are a standard item but altered with a chisel punch, this will make the knock louder. The pivot was forged and tenoned and rivetted on (Hope she hasn't got PVC doors) Apologies for the picture quality Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tzonoqua Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 Wonderful little Welsh Dragon! If that's your idea of "simple" I'd love to see "complicated" work!! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cal-k Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 love the finish on the back plate. how'd you do it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted February 11, 2010 Author Share Posted February 11, 2010 love the finish on the back plate. how'd you do it? Wire brush off when hot, then a fine sand Blast, aerosol spray grey primer, then topcoat with a satin finish black aerosol that is used for car accessory finishing. Gives a nice satin finish that is easily applied, durable, tactile, and I prefer the look to a gloss finish It can be easily matched, and you do not have to bother with mixing and cleaning spray equipment, ideal for small areas, I purchase a case at a time from a local motor factors, and they work about £2 a can so are relatively economical to do, and the finish will cope well with outdoor weather situations, equally good for indoor, as the piece can be easily dusted, unlike the matt finishes. I have tried many types of paint and am happy with this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beth Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 lovely dragon john! love the nice weight on the end of his tail good and heavy. i prefer less glossy finish too. that cameras coming in useful isnt it? ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted February 11, 2010 Author Share Posted February 11, 2010 Wonderful little Welsh Dragon! If that's your idea of "simple" I'd love to see "complicated" work!! Hi Colleen, What about this one then, Forged stainless steel, again made by one of our members, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tzonoqua Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 Wow John, those flowers are fantastic! and stainless - can imagine the work that went into those! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beth Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 wow! madness.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted February 12, 2010 Author Share Posted February 12, 2010 wow! madness.. No, Beth, just taking the basic skills to new levels, and pushing boundaries, Andrew started and attended many of the Guild courses, and developed the skills he learnt on them to achieve this level and become a UK National champion in both live competitions, and for his workpieces such as the one shown The pictures I post are to try to inspire and encourage others to see what can be achieved with the blacksmiths skills. Most of them are by made 'smiths and students from our courses, like the ones of your rose and poppy I posted, they look good and are well made, and impress your fellow artisans, hopefully inspiring them to do the same. You just have to get the basic skills and build on them, and you are on your way "Simples" as Alexander says Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 Well said, John B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Welsh Man Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 John, Love the Dragon (made me smile) need to get down to one of your courses, i am inspired and need to improve my knowledge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted February 16, 2010 Author Share Posted February 16, 2010 Thanks for that, look forward to seeing you, We have a couple of IForge weekends coming up this year you may want to attend, they should be listed on the calender on the site, otherwise they are on www.blacksmithsguild.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Welsh Man Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 Hi John After seeing your Dragon Knocker I plan to try and make a pair of hanging basket brackets with a head of some description on the top bar. I have looked around and found some good info on the basics technique but my experience to date is limited to a few gates and I wonder what tool do you use to cut in for the horns or ears ? I have not done any hot cutting yet. I have the usual collection of cold chisels but what would you recommend making a thin hot slicing chisel out of, I have some coil springs I can forge down but wonder if you have any other suggestions. Thanks all best Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted February 25, 2010 Author Share Posted February 25, 2010 Hi John After seeing your Dragon Knocker I plan to try and make a pair of hanging basket brackets with a head of some description on the top bar. I have looked around and found some good info on the basics technique but my experience to date is limited to a few gates and I wonder what tool do you use to cut in for the horns or ears ? I have not done any hot cutting yet. I have the usual collection of cold chisels but what would you recommend making a thin hot slicing chisel out of, I have some coil springs I can forge down but wonder if you have any other suggestions. Thanks all best Brian Hi Brian, Cold chisels are OK to mark out on cold material where you want to locate your hot chisel if you are a bit wary of using the hot cut without marking where you are going to cut. Hot chisels, use either spring steel or old files, or reforge and work any spare cold chisels, you know they should be a decent quality steel and can be used for other purposes, treat as files when re using them as in this instance. If using the old files, remove the tang end (If you cut these off on a hardie, then they make good little scrapers for removing welding spatter, sticky clinker and scale.) Anneal the full length and then forge and hot file the cutting edge and allow to air cool, then dress cutting end with stones or sander to give a sharpish edge, radius around top where you are going to strike it. (Keep redressing as necessary when it burrs over in use, if you dont, the end may splinter and bits hit your holding hand or worse) Make the cutting edge at a slight radius (Side to side to form an arc) so that you can rock it as you move it forward when cutting a line, it also seems to cut easier as it slices through There is usually no need to specifically harden and temper the edge as any tempering you do can be removed in use, particularly if you are not confident and experienced in their use. (Because the material is usually tougher than what you are cutting, there is no real need to harden and temper) When you have started to cut, after two or three blows, cool the edge in water, then back to the cutting and repeat the cycle, cut at a good red heat, and remember to use a cutting plate on the anvil face before you finish the split. Hope this helps, (this is covered on our taster days as a basic skill) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Welsh Man Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 Thanks John 27th March looks good will get a letter off tonight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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