baggs Posted February 5, 2010 Share Posted February 5, 2010 What does the surface of dies on power hammers that produce the veins or grooves on vines look like? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted February 5, 2010 Share Posted February 5, 2010 Looks like this: http://www.blacksmithsdepot.com/Templates/cart_templates/cart-detail.php?theLocation=/Resources/Products/SWAGE_spring/Vine_Texture_Spring_Swages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hammer Posted February 5, 2010 Share Posted February 5, 2010 Munchy Munchy :rolleyes: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judson Yaggy Posted February 5, 2010 Share Posted February 5, 2010 No flies on you Grant! Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bentiron1946 Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 They even have swages to make the whole leaf http://www.blacksmithsdepot.com/Templates/cart_templates/cart_browse.php?theLocation=/Resources/Products/SWAGE_spring&where=&PHPSESSID=07e5b73a3c75b1d3db8f0cfacab3334b just look at the rest of the list on their site. I guess one of my favorite sites isn't up anymore for some reason, Magic Hammer Forge, wonder what happened? Any way there are several plans/videos out there showing homemade veining dies for power hammers or for use on an anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamesrjohnson Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 Back in 2003, I made a set of vine/bark texturing dies for my 33 Anyang. I started with regular flat dies, then took a angle grinder and cut 3/16 deep grooves one after another. So when I was finished, both the top/bottom dies had rows of teeth that would leave multiple lines in the work piece with every hammer blow. When making the dies, I didn't worry about using any layout math or getting every tooth the same size. The dies looked rough, you could tell they weren't made in a machine shop, but they worked really well. Again all you need is a vise, grinder, good tool steel, and about 20 minutes. When working with the dies, I would first perform light blows until the work piece was covered with light/shallow lines. Then I would start going back over the work piece using heavier blows, that would leave deep lines. This does two things for your texture. First, it gives your work more of a organic look. When I am trying to create a vine/bark texture look, I want to see different line widths, lengths, and depth. Second, when you already have light lines/texture, by re-hitting the light lines with heavy blows, the heavy blows will push/move the light lines side to side creating almost a wood grain like wave. With these dies and my 33, I textured steel from 1/4 - 1.50 thick. Eventually I'm going to add these texturing dies to the Anyang die inventory, so that Anyang owners can buy these dies right off the shelf. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscar C Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 here's a good picture of some bark dies... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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