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I Forge Iron

copper sheath


markb

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I followed this tutorial. http://beknivessite2.homestead.com/nssheath.html
Used copper .040 thick because I didn't have nickle silver.
Used hard silver solder and made the ball from two dapped half sphears.
Let me know what you think. Still needs felt and clip. I learned a lot on this. Thanks for looking.
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Very nice, thank you very much for sharing.

Please add your location to your profile so people can tailor conversation to your location.

You can place your location in the "Location" in the "Other Information" section of the forums "Profile". An example can be seen under my Avatar. :D

How to put a location under your Avatar

Step 1. Click on your name on the upper right hand corner of this screen for example Bob would click on “Mainely.Bob”.
Step 2. Scroll down and Click on "My Profile"
Step 3. Chick on “Edit My Profile” button near the upper right corner of the screen.
Step 4. Scroll down in the next screen to “Other Information” heading on the screen.
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Step 6. Scroll to the bottom of this screen and click on the box that says, “Save Changes”.

I hope this helps. If not let me know where I may need to elaborate.

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Very nice looking sheath. I have been told that you can cover the silver solder with copper by dissolving copper in acid and then immerse the sheath in it along with some steel wool. This will cause the copper that is dissolved in the acid to plate onto the silver solder and thus hide it. I wish I could remember the source. Thomas Powers most likely knows for sure, he knows a lot of stuff like that.

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Very nice looking sheath. I have been told that you can cover the silver solder with copper by dissolving copper in acid and then immerse the sheath in it along with some steel wool. This will cause the copper that is dissolved in the acid to plate onto the silver solder and thus hide it. I wish I could remember the source. Thomas Powers most likely knows for sure, he knows a lot of stuff like that.




Please tell me more about this! Does this trick work for tin based solder? Is there a "recipe"
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Please tell me more about this! Does this trick work for tin based solder? Is there a "recipe"

You could use a product like this. http://www.amazon.com/Super-Brite-Copper-Patina-Solder/dp/B000N64PDE
I've used copper patina for stained glass work.
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Thanks all for the kind comments
The handle is older ivory paper micarta( yellows with age) '80s.
Working on a belt clip, and will attempt a retention pin of some sort with the next one.Not sure how to do that.
This is what inspired me. Love the SF style and attempting blades in that pattern also.
http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/roadshow/archive/200304A15.html
http://www.sanfranciscoknives.com/makers.html
I'd also like to know of the plating process.
Thanks for the link DKunkler
I welcome all coments and advice.
MBehnke

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I have 2 old bayonets but never looked at them closely. Thanks Bigun

I think some of the push dagger sheaths have a spring loaded pin that engages a depression in the recasso area? Hard to get good pics of those.

Maybe I could check old patents?

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What I have been able to find out from my jeweler friend is this. First you got to have a pickle pot and that is, in his case a large crock pot filled with a product used in swimming pools called pH down. This is what he cleans his work off in after soldering it, gets all of the black crud off of the silver, copper oxides. These copper oxides eventually turn the pickle green. He saves up some of this green pickle for when he needs to cover up some silver solder on a copper piece. He heats the green pickle up, puts a wad, yes that's what he said, a wad of steel wool in the pickle and then the copper item. This causes the copper dissolved in the pickle to plate out onto the copper item placed into the pickle. He said it didn't take long at all. He also said that sometimes when folk accidentally dropped a small piece of steel into the pickle and then their silver it would get copper plated too, not a good idea, but he did say it did a passable job of covering up silver solder without going to the trouble of using a plating service. Hope this helps but give it a try on a scrap first before you try it on the scabbard. By the way that is a handsome knife and I really like that progression of diameters in the silver inlays on the handle, that is just excellent.

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Thanks Bentiron for the formula and compliments.

I am using the PH down but haven't heated it yet, and need to do more pickling to get the green. Did learn the hard way about neutralizing the sheath before putting the knife in.

Got a nasty corrosion where the sheath contacted the blade.
Two dissimilar metals plus the ph down did a deep etch.

That's my third knife,1084, stock removal, paper micarta, SS bolster and pins.

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