I need an extra hand!!

[Rob Browne]

Been on a bit of a break from work lately and have had time to string together several days of mangling metal in a row. Can almost remember which end of a hammer to hold now.

Finally finished a pair of bolt tongs I have been "working" on for quite a while now and thought I would have yet another go at a drop and hold weld, fagot welds and billets are no problem.

Now I know why I was not much of a ladies man. I just don't have enough hands No matter how many times I practice the moves cold I have yet to get a weld to stick and always feel like I need an extra hand.

The powers to be have declared a total fire ban tomorrow in a lot of NSW so that puts an end to my practice sessions for a while but, one day I'll get it!

Now I feel better after that rant.......................................

[Mick]

Looks like you need to take a trip to your nearest second hand shop Rob.

Oh, ROFLMA, ha ha he he, giggle, guffaw. Some days I am just sooooo funny.

[rthibeau]

he needs a third hand, not a second hand......:)

[David Einhorn]

You can always count on us for pointing you to extra hands
Mannequin Hand

[Glenn]

Sometimes size and L or R makes a difference.
Mannequin Hand(s)

[Francis Trez Cole]

this is where eveloution messed up we could have used that prehensal tail. but in some of the old books there are tongs that hold both pieces of metal in line at one time with one hand make a jig.

Edited November 27, 2009 by Francis Cole

[Doug C]

I have the same issue. Next time I am moving the anvil closer to the fire in hopes I'll lose less heat.

[DennisG]

if we were born with the third hand.......... we'd want a fourth.

[Glenn]

Usually a third hand is not needed when making a forge weld. You get everything in position, good heat on the fire, anvil up close and half a step away from the forge, hammer on the anvil, and a positive attitude. Practice the dance, over and over till you know the routine. Know where everything is without looking, just reach. Get the metal up to welding temperature, put the two pieces in place, use one to hold the other, and be sure there is just a bit of an air gap between the metal and the anvil so the anvil does not suck the welding heat from the metal. Now drop the tongs, grab the hammer, and bump the weld.

Those forge welding photos where you see the beautiful sparks radiating out from the weld is pure Hollywood. It looks great in the movies and in photos but that is all. Those beautiful sparks radiating out is your weld being scattered to the four corners of the shop. Just bump it with a hammer, do not hit it. Once the weld takes, go back to the fire for another heat and this time continue the weld. Keeping the metal up to welding temperature allows you to continue the welding process. You will get better and quicker with practice, and at some point you can do it all in one heat, and still have enough heat in the metal to dress up and hide the weld. But it takes practice and more than a few welds.

Want to jump start the learning, go to a hammer in and have someone that knows how teach you how they forge weld. But it is still practice on your part that makes it look easy to the next fellow.

[Pault17]

It can't be too hard:o. I got to watch a master by the name of Robert Timberlake do just that when I worked at the state fair a month ago. He had just finished welding a bar of 3/8 round into a necked-down piece of 3/4 in steel pipe. He did the drop weld on the thin piece of plate he was forging into the ladle, welding it onto the ladle stem.

:(
he made it look so easy. and he didn't even have a lot of sparks flying about.

honestly, it was truly amazing and educational to watch. and he was about three steps from the forge to the anvil, and it was all mild steel - no wrought

[Dale Russell]

Rob , this little anvil tool may be of some help .
Set it up to position 1 piece on the " Anvil Helper " , then just rest the other ontop for your weld

I Forge Iron - BP0092 Anvil Helper

Hope it's of some help


Dale Russell

[divermike]

Take a look at this, keep a small stake anvil next to the forge, and have everything right in front of you, sometimes that really helps me on the smaller welds. Here is a pic of my setup, the stake is right to the side of the forge where I can quickly move the hot pieces to it.

[Dale Russell]

Divermike, this is what i do my " first " weld on
It heats up while fires goin' , that way i'm not puttin' hot iron onta a cold anvil & loosin' all my heat . Once i get first weld to stick reheat & then finish weld on my anvil

chain after forging in press - Blacksmith Photo Gallery

Dale Russell

[Bentiron1946]

Here's a short video on YouTube by Mark Aspery and it shows his handy dandy little third hand. YouTube - Blacksmithing Forge-welding a branch

[Rob Browne]

Thanks for all your "advice" fellas

The anvil helper may be the next project but I still think an extra hand would be good.

Cheers

[Glenn]

Divermike, It appears to me that the chimney on your forge is a bit short. Does it allow any smoke from the forge into the shop or does it draw well? What is the diameter of that chimney as if it works for you I think I would like to build one here for my forge. I am not interested in the hood, just the operation of what looks to be a short stack or chimney above the hood.

Post #12 on this thread so those interested can look at the photo (grin)

[David E.]

Divermike, It appears to me that the chimney on your forge is a bit short. Does it allow any smoke from the forge into the shop or does it draw well? What is the diameter of that chimney as if it works for you I think I would like to build one here for my forge. I am not interested in the hood, just the operation of what looks to be a short stack or chimney above the hood.

Post #12 on this thread so those interested can look at the photo (grin)

Glenn, that is the new see through chimney, Health & Safety insist on them over here, so vision across the shop is not impaired. When lighting the fire,hold your breath for 30 seconds,with all windows and doors closed of course so the smoke goes straight up, once it starts drawing you can start breathing again. If you still have the old fashioned opaque chimney (non see through) you can cut a section out:D

[divermike]

Glenn,
I just replaced the hood, and am waiting for an adaptor from the 10 inch hood to the 13 inch culvert piping stack. I went with the culvert pipe, so that I can put a second forge into it if I want in the future. I like the see through idea though!!

[Randy]

Rob, the "drop the tongs weld" isn't that difficult and you don't need a third hand. Practice cold is a good tip, but the key is if you are right handed, the long piece is in your left hand, the short piece in the tongs in your right hand. (Opposite if you are left handed) When you come out of the fire the scarf of the long piece is on top of the scarf of the short piece. Line the two pieces up and use the strength of the long piece to push down and hold the short piece in place. Then drop the tongs from your right hand, therefore the name of the weld, and grab the hammer and snap the two pieces together, not a killer blow. Then carefully put the lightly welded pieces back into the fire, take a good welding heat and finish the forge weld. If it's heavier stock you can do it in one heat. Now that you know what to do look at Marks' video that was mentioned earlier and you will see those steps. Now do ten welds like this. Each one will get easier.

[Rob Browne]

Thanks to those who have replied. I know I don't really need an extra hand BUT it sure feels like it. When you practice it cold you can do it in no time flat BUT when its hot and you are trying not to let it cool too much you have two left hands!

More practice when the weather cooperates.