territorialmillworks Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 Friend has a lead foundry business (shielding for X-ray equip). He offered me some brick sized graphite blocks. I of course said yes but have NO idea what I can use them for.....Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 Dad and I would carve shapes in carbon brushes for casting lead sinkers and lures. Things ranged from simple to interesting, even though it was an open face mold. Simple shapes worked best such as drilling something like a pocket hole, then carving an eye shape for teardrop sinkers. If the mold was slightly tapered to release the shape we had very good results, and a reusable mold. After 100 castings there were no visible deformations in the cavity or molded lead for simple shapes. The more complex shapes did not survive as long, only about 20 uses at best till detail would be eroded away. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 We used graphite for continuous casting dies, as well as crucibles. Graphite starts to oxidize above 800 degrees so the crucibles were used with an inert atmosphere. Graphite is very abrasive on tools, Carbide works best, as HSS is eaten very quickly when milling. If you can find out what grade of graphite, or possibly manufacturer you might be able to sell it. We used a lot of Toyo Tanso made graphite. Google graphite uses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Turley Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 I have one block that I keep under my forge. When I'm normalizing a steel tool, I put it on the block, because the graphite is essentially "non-reactive."http://www.turleyforge.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Aspery Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 I use it when I repair anvils around the hardy hole. I cut a piece to fit the hardy (exactly) and then weld up to it. The block acts as a dam and prevents me from having to do as much grinding down in the hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
territorialmillworks Posted November 11, 2009 Author Share Posted November 11, 2009 Thx Mark...not that I need to weld my anvil hardy hole but hadn't thought about using it in non-stick situations for welding....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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