jmeineke Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 I recently purchased some equipment that included two very heavy forges and two fire pots. One of them looks to me to be in pretty bad shape - cracked on both sides and pretty caked up with crud and has some deep pits. My question is, can it be saved, and if so how would I go about it? I was thinking I might be able to take an angle grinder to it and weld up the sides a bit and then coat it with a refractory cement (the seller recommended the cement). The other issue is that when this pot is placed in the forge, there is a very wide gap between the forge and the pot - like it doesn't fit at all (3+ inches of gaps due to the forge having a sag in the middle and the fire pot bulging and cracking). Should I try to straighten one or both? The other forge is in great shape and I could put this pot in it, but I'd like to use the beat up pot in the bent forge. The second fire pot looks to be in great shape, but doesn't look like it will fit in either of the forges. I may be able to insert it from the bottom of the forge and then position it in the hole but haven't tried that yet. It doesn't look like it goes with either of the forges. I'm new with all of this, so I'm not sure what to do here. Any advice / comments / thoughts would be appreciated. The pics, in order below, are: 1. The fire pot that looks shot to me 2. The pot that's in good condition but doesn't look like it will fit 3. Forge that is mounted but sagging in the middle 4. The forge that's in great shape but not mounted - no sagging in the middle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Einhorn Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 It depends what tools and skills you have available to you, as well as what you want the forges to look like when finished. If you have a wire cup on a grinder, I would use it to clean off the stuff so as to better see what I have. The two forges themselves look OK, I would clean them off, and install legs. If you have the money you might wish to consider purchasing new firepots with tuyers. If you have more time then money, you might consider welding up new firepots. Don't worry too much about the gap between the firepot and the forge as you can line the bottom of the forges with clay or refractory, and take up some of that gap with the clay or refractory. You will need to leave a small gap for expansion between the firepot and the forge. If you wish to try to save the first firepot, again clean it off and see if it can be repaired with a bit of nickel rod. A tuyer will need to be acquired or made for the first firepot. It looks like you have some good stuff there, and some options to think about. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmeineke Posted November 7, 2009 Author Share Posted November 7, 2009 Thanks, Unicorn! I actually do have the tuyere for the cracked pot, but it is not shown in the pictures - and I definitely have way more time than money . All of the mounting hardware is rust-welded together and will need to be cut out and replaced, but not a big deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmeineke Posted November 7, 2009 Author Share Posted November 7, 2009 Quick question - can I use a MIG welder instead of nickel rod? I don't have a stick welder - just a small MIG (gas & flux core). I've welded large things with it before, just have to make several passes. I don't much about welding - just enough to do small household repairs here and there... Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francis Trez Cole Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 if you have a mig welder I would weld up a new firepot out of 1/4" plate and retire the broken one. Look up brake drum forge and I posted a set of plans for a new fire pot there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmeineke Posted November 11, 2009 Author Share Posted November 11, 2009 Actually I welded up the broken one already (broke it more while I was chipping away the crust). I'm guessing it's going to crack again, but it was good welding practice for me if nothing else - man that's some interesting stuff to weld! Also found some cracks in the forge as well that I took care of while I was at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Einhorn Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 Quick question - can I use a MIG welder instead of nickel rod? I don't have a stick welder - just a small MIG (gas & flux core). .. Thanks. Cast iron has its own nature. Nickel makes the rod stick to the cast iron, and it tends to say that it is for cast iron on the package if you are buying it in small amounts from the farm store. I have doubts that plain Mig wire will stick to cast iron, unless you find some that is specifically designated for cast iron. My personal preference is towards deep firepots such as shown in your first picture. In your situation I would try fixing that firepot or welding up one that looks as close as possible to it, and bolting the tuyer to it. Life is short, having a well designed firepot is one of life's simple pleasures of which I encourage everyone to partake if at all possible. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmeineke Posted November 11, 2009 Author Share Posted November 11, 2009 Yeah, if these welds don't hold then I'll weld up a new one. If it turns out to be toast, I'll take a look at the plans Francis Cole mentioned (don't by any chance have a direct link handy, do you ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 I've had pretty good luck welding "some" cast iron with a MIG. Welded up an old cast iron wood stove one time that was all busted up. Didn't run any beads just a whole bunch of "tacks". I'd probably try it with a firepot because it won't have any real strain on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Einhorn Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 (edited) Personally, I like what this gentleman did when he made a firepot by welding. Your tuyer would even fit to its bottom if you provided for spots on the firepot to bolt your tuyer to it. -- http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f7/my-welded-firepot-11263/#post108586 . . . Edited November 11, 2009 by UnicornForge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 You can also drill a few holes an inch or so from the crack and scab a piece of metal over the crack. That was recommended in another thread about welding a firepot, and it is easy to do. The other recommendation in that thread was to drill a hole in the end of the crack to terminate the crack.http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f85/worth-saving-15539/ Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francis Trez Cole Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 that is the same way I make mine. Have for years they work great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmeineke Posted November 11, 2009 Author Share Posted November 11, 2009 You can also drill a few holes an inch or so from the crack and scab a piece of metal over the crack. That was recommended in another thread about welding a firepot, and it is easy to do. The other recommendation in that thread was to drill a hole in the end of the crack to terminate the crack.http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f85/worth-saving-15539/ Phil Too late... I ran beads :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 That's fine, if your welds hold, you don't have any problems. If your welds are sub-par, you have a line of recourse. I hope your welds stay nicely stuck. It's not fun repairing something more than once. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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