John Smith Posted October 19, 2009 Share Posted October 19, 2009 Ok guys I have been out of the shop for about a month now. So aside from polishing blades and stuff. I decided to forge my first Naginata and it is in the Nanbokucho period I love that period in Japanese history. It is a wide blade and is historical to the originals I have seen, and I have reaserched the specs and there are some even wider than mine. So having said that, the blade specs are as follows. The steel is 1050. And I go it from a forum member, who's name escapes me right now OAL is 36 3/4" The Nakago is 15 1/2" The Nagasa is 21 1/4" this may change as I bring the kissaki in a bit to even the balance out. The Motohaba ( Mune-machi to Ha-machi ) is 1 1/2" The widest point at the kissaki is about a 16th under 1 3/4 The blades thickness at the mune-machi is 1/4" And once I am done draw filing the blade and have the shinogi set it will bring the mune in at the kissaki to about 3/16". There will be more sori once I heat treat it. This blade look beefy but handles extremely well. So here are some photos of the blade and my Fiance is holding it to give some depth. Comments welcome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy k Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 John - That is looking good - you definately have entered into a relm of lots of labor. Post pics when done, again it sure looks good and it looks like your on your way to having a fine piece. - JK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckster2.0 Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 Why use 1050 when you could use a stronger steel like 1095? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Smith Posted October 21, 2009 Author Share Posted October 21, 2009 Chuck I choose this piece of steel because I want some great activity in the habuchi once heat treated. I could have used some W-1 or W-2 and got great results, however 1050 is a very good steel to use. Plus 1095 does not fair well in water quenching, which is what I do for all my steel. Except 5160 which is oil quenched. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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