nonjic Posted October 31, 2009 Share Posted October 31, 2009 wont hurt it beth, but it will get annoying very fast! (sorry never replyed to your email, Ill sort it monday! - things bit hectic at the mo!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip in china Posted October 31, 2009 Author Share Posted October 31, 2009 I had thought of a couple of studs to hold it in place. After all it is just to stop lateral movement- it isn't going to suddenly fly (is it?) But the lip on the hole seems adequate. The frame gets slightly warm to the touch but I assume that that is caused by the compression of the air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nonjic Posted November 1, 2009 Share Posted November 1, 2009 Air hammers can get very hot when they run for a while, its the friction of the piston rings inside, and the air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beth Posted November 1, 2009 Share Posted November 1, 2009 thanks guys yes i will heed yr advice - it is already annoying and is going to be a silly pain to shift back.. you live and learn dont you? i have not even got my anvil anchored properly.... maybe this will be a pin things down week.. philip the casing on mine gets really hot - i had been presuming that was ok - its kind of comforting! ps john dont panic about the email its not urgent! just reply when youve got a quiet five mins:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryce Masuk Posted November 2, 2009 Share Posted November 2, 2009 I have all my papers tomorrow my buddy with the crane truck is picking her up I just narrowly avoided the storage fees ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beth Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 have pinned down the hammer - can look you guys in the eye again!:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madmike Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 Cool, know you can smash some steel and show us Have fun ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beth Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 mike dont worry - will show when theres anything worth showing!;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip in china Posted February 1, 2010 Author Share Posted February 1, 2010 Somebody (John N I think) posted a definitive set of plans to make an ideal base for a hammer. At the new place we will soon be pouring the base for my new shop so I would like to put as much of those plans into the base as possible. The only trouble is I can't now find the posting! Can anybody help please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamesrjohnson Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 Phillip, I made my bases out of 1/4" steel plate annd filled with concrete. I will email you the plans. I just recceived the new hammers and bases from Anyang and they look outstanding. I will post pictures when I get them fully uncrated and in my shop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamesrjohnson Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 I thought that I would go ahead and post the instructions that I give customers for fabricating the Anyang 33 base. Below are the directions for making the base for a 33 lb Anyang. With all of the hammers I have sold, most of the customers have asked me to build the base... They are fairly easy to make, but it does take some time... I have attached pictures of the base. Overall dimension of the steel base is: 14" wide, 21.5" tall, 20" long. Make a 4 sided base with these dimensions out of 1/4" steel plate. Material list: 21.5"X14"X.25" steel plate for front and back of box (need 2 of these) 21.5"X19.5"x.25" two side plates for box (need 2 of these) note shorter dimensions (19.5")... front and back overlap to make up 20" long dimension 13.5"X19.5"X.25" steel plate for bottom (need 1 of these) Note shorter dimensions, bottom plate fits inside of the side plates. Remove the two treadle pivot pins on the sides of the hammer. Cut threaded section off pivot pin. Weld the pivot pins onto the side plates of the box. Center of each pin should be 12.5" from the front of the box (be careful, dimension is 12.25 from front edge of the side plate because the front plate overlaps side plates) and 3" from the bottom. You will use these pins to mount the foot treadle. Cut two pieces of 1/4" angle iron 2" by 2" 18" long. You will use these for the motor mount. (See pictures) Weld the two pieces of angle iron on the back side of the box. Sides of the angle will be flush with the outside of the box and the top of the angle 5" from the bottom of the box. (see pictures 023, 024, 025). Cut 4 pieces of 1/2" threaded rod 6" long. Keep these for later welding onto angle iron for motor mount. Cut 3/4" plywood 14" wide by 20" long. Place hammer on top of the plywood and transfer punch through the mounting holes of the hammer (or very carefully measure the hole positions of the hammer). Drill 4 5/8" holes in the plywood. The threaded rod will go through these holes and then will be used to anchor down the hammer to the base. Cut 4 pieces of 1/2" threaded rod approximately 25.5" long (long enough to be welded on the bottom of the box, and then through the plywood and the cast base of the hammer. Use plywood as a template to position threaded rods. Weld the threaded rod to the bottom plate. Weld short braces from the sides of the box to the threaded rod to make sure they stay in the correct location when you poor concrete into the box. Fill the base with concrete and when the concrete is still wet, place the plywood over the top of the base to make sure the threaded rods are in the correct position. Mount the hammer on the base after the concrete sets up. Bolt down hammer. Bolt the motor to the motor mount plate that is supplied. Locate the motor where the belt pulley's of the motor align with the hammer pulley. Locate the position of the 4-6" threaded rods. Weld the threaded rod to the angle iron. Use hex nuts and washers to adjust the height of the motor to tighten the belts. I use a laser level or a straight edge to make sure the hammer pulley and motor pulley are aligned. Weld angle iron tabs to the bottom of the base to anchor to the shop floor. When welding the box, weld short 2" sections at a time to keep plate from warping. (Tack weld box together first) Cut the rod that goes from the foot treadle to the control valve and towards the top (below the control valve), weld a turnbuckle so you can adjust the foot peddle. The length of the rod and turnbuckle should be about 46" (again, you can adjust this length with the turnbuckle). (see 022.jpg) The new Anyang hammers now come from the factory with the turnbuckle. I realize that there are many ways to put a base under these machines... but above is what I have been doing and they have worked great for me for many years. Having said all of this, I hope to never build a base again... the bases out of Anyang are fabricated out of 3/4" plate steel, have slots for moving them with a fork lift. They are very stout. I don't think that I could make them for what we can get them from the factory. Another advantage is that you save a lot of setup time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip in china Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 Thank you for that. With alterations that would be an excellent basis for any Anyang base I would imagine. Certainly as a cutting list and instructions for the 25Kg it is superb. Somebody had some details on the perfect way to isolate the slab on which the hammer stands from the rest of the floor. Does any body remember where that all is? I do wonder if somebody should amass all the information on Anyangs in one place- a book or a DVD or something. There is a lot of information out there and the hammers are becoming more common every month almost throughout the world. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamesrjohnson Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Thanks for your kind remarks Phillip. On the Anyang 33 with this base, I don't think you have isolate the hammer from the foundation... I have a 88 lb Anyang on a 6 inch slab and built a similar base as the 33 and did not isolate the foundation... I don't think there is a problem. Now on the 165, that is a different matter. I built a seperate foundation that was 4 foot deep. John Nicholson has great plans for foundation isolation. As for putting all of the information on Anyangs together in one place and DVD's... I have plans to do that but have been so busy that it has just not gotten done. I am in the process of switching out my shop... selling the LG 50, installing a vent system for a coal forge, selling one of my older 33's, and setting up the new 55's that just came in. I bought a high def video camera but have just not had the time to do the video's. When things slow down, I will be doing a lot of forging video's on both the use of the power hammers and how I create some of my art. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi Pete Posted February 20, 2010 Share Posted February 20, 2010 Hi Guys I am new to this forum but I have just ordered an Anyang 25kg hammer, the help that James Johnson has given me is tremendous.I would recomend him as dealer to anyone, Thanks James and Glen Moon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Salvati Posted February 21, 2010 Share Posted February 21, 2010 I didn't need to isolate mine, jut an old truck mud flap between the base and floor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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