chichi Posted September 19, 2009 Share Posted September 19, 2009 How is the raised vein made in a leaf? I assume a crease is made in a piece of flat stock and the leaf form is centered over it and then beat down so the vein section is just the part that is not flattened. How wide and deep must the crease in the die be? How is the leaf form kept steady so the edge of the vein is not eradicated by slight but inevitable movement? BTW, the leaf on Brian Brazeal's web site could make a guy cry it is so well done. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
double_edge2 Posted September 19, 2009 Share Posted September 19, 2009 yeh....i saw that one ..lol ...my feeble attempts, though ok are no where near as ok as that and a couple of others ive seen from this forun .. you can make a hardy die or a chisel or get flash a do a spring die. the rest is practice/technique. a steady hand and a good eye.....and good hammering.:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted September 19, 2009 Share Posted September 19, 2009 If you are talking about the central vein running from the stem to the tip, it can be made by folding the leaf in half, lightly hammering shut, then opening the leaf again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avadon Posted September 19, 2009 Share Posted September 19, 2009 If it were me, I would raise the vein as opposed to to trying to dish/flatten everywhere the vein isn't. I think you will find raising over a small steel ball or similar stake easier. Depending on how thick your leaf is you can also use the different types of steel balls used in doming sets. I.e more like Repousse work on a thick rubber mat, pine plank, shot bag, pitch, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Turley Posted September 19, 2009 Share Posted September 19, 2009 Schwarzkopf* shows a simple hand held chasing tool which has a slight curve on the business end. You run it along either side of what will eventually be the vein. It is often done cold, and you rock it along like an old fashioned can opener. You are setting down material, thus leaving the raised vein. * "Plain and Ornamental Forging" reprinted in 2000 by Astragal PressTurley Forge and Blacksmithing School : The Granddaddy of Blacksmithing Schools Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
double_edge2 Posted September 19, 2009 Share Posted September 19, 2009 (edited) yep and the use of stock or angle, with a shelf/step on the anvil to keep the steel rib created, central for both sides raised vein.http://www.artist-blacksmith.org/education/education_index.htmhttp://home.flash.net/~dwwilson/ntba/archive/decoleaf/leaftools.html Edited September 19, 2009 by double_edge2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chichi Posted September 19, 2009 Author Share Posted September 19, 2009 Thanks for the tips. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted September 19, 2009 Share Posted September 19, 2009 You could also look at Anvilfires iForge site blueprints 8 and 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 It has been mentioned somewhere that raised veining is done in one hit to prevent marring the veins. This is using a veining bottom die. Might be in one of those blueprints. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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