oakwoodforge Posted August 5, 2006 Posted August 5, 2006 This little guy was an experiment of sorts. I'd never tried for a hamon on a blacksmith's knife before or even on a blade this small for that matter. Lesson learned: use less clay !!! This one fails the test, the hamon is too close to the edge, though it is a decent portrayal of a Ko-notare type pattern and has some interesting charcater. Jens Quote
B. Norris Posted August 5, 2006 Posted August 5, 2006 Nice Jens! What are you doing to get such good contrast between the hardened and unhardened steels? Quote
oakwoodforge Posted August 5, 2006 Author Posted August 5, 2006 Bruce after polishing on a natural chug nagura stone (about 2000- 2500 grit) I give 'em a quick dip in a white vinegar & lemon juice Mix that I heat to near boiling in the microwave. Then I neurtalize with baking soda and rinse with water a couple of times then just oil the blade. Jens Quote
Sam Salvati Posted August 6, 2006 Posted August 6, 2006 Jeez Jens please tell me you are not going to melt it down(for failing the test)!? Hehe just kidding, why is it bad the hamon is so close to the edge? Was that refractory clay you used? Quote
oakwoodforge Posted August 6, 2006 Author Posted August 6, 2006 A hamon line to close to the edge means eventually with continued use and sharpening you will wear through the hardened steel. After all a hamon line is just visable proof of hardened and un-hardened steel. Also It just looks off when the line is to close to the edge, I think a good balance is about 1/4 to 3/8 but no more than 1/2 of the blade covered by the hamon and thats what I try for. I've Been using Satanite that I got from Ellis Custom Knifeworks Refractory & High Temperature Tools - Ellis Custom Knifeworks Jens Quote
Sam Salvati Posted August 6, 2006 Posted August 6, 2006 Cool, but don't you run the risk of chipping it more if the hamon is bigger? I do gree though a hamon that is big, BIG, looks alot better. If you want, you could just send me that knife, you know, if you want (hehe). Quote
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