Rosco Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 I just received a champion 400 blower and want to take a look at the gears. The only problem is that I can't get the cover off. Looks like it's been on for the passed 50 years and I've never taken one off before, so I don't know if it needs a good rap with hammer or a careful pry with screwdriver... Any words of guidance would be much appreciated. :confused: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rokshasa Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 spray some penetrating oil on it then try to remove it again..perhaps some moisture made it inside and sealed the seam with rust. if you can get a pic on here maybe we can assess the situation a little better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsiler Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 After you use the penetrating oil and give it time to soak the cover won't come straight off. It slides to the back (away from blower end)I think, it's been awhile since I've had mine off. There are 2 screws on the inside that holds it down. I think 2, man this getting old is bad. Can't remember nothing anymore. Anyway just be patient. It'll come off. Good Luck Billy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Browne Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 I would be very careful with the "good rap" on cast iron. You may end up with several bits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bnewberry Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 On some blowers you have to drift the shaft off the blower fan to get to the gears. At least that is how mine was/is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P. Bedard Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 I would be very careful with the "good rap" on cast iron. You may end up with several bits. AMEN to that brother! Honestly, be VERY careful hitting cast iron, especially when it's this thin. Give it a good soak and I suggest a careful pry with a screwdriver. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Falcon 72 Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 (edited) Is this your blower? If so, there are two screws holding the top on. They are on top between the gear case and the fan case. After you remove them the top should slide back. There is a large screw inside the case that engages a slot cast into the inside of the top at the rear away from the fan. It holds the back down. If it's not loose enough to slide off after you remove the screws, I'd advise a good soak in diesel. Then carefuly using a putty knife slowly tap it into the split all the way around. You're not using the putty to get the top off merely trying to break the gunk seal. Then carefully use a flathead srewdriver to pry the top toward the rear. DO NOT TRY TO PRY UP you'll break the top. Still won't come loose? Soak some more and do it again. Still won't come loose? Most likely the diesel is not getting to the gunk buildup on the internal holddown screw. Very carefully warm the rear of the top just past the "too hot to touch stage" and then try to pry it back. Edited September 2, 2009 by Iron Falcon 72 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosco Posted September 2, 2009 Author Share Posted September 2, 2009 Thanks for your quick responses. It finally came off. The large screw inside was caked with old hardened oil and effectively glued into the recess. I pulled off the bearing covers and flushed the entire thing with 30-wt. oil until it drained out of the shaft ends. After emptying it out and rotating the crank slowly, it's running smooth and free. I'm thinking a little 50-wt. gear oil kept in the bottom should be enough to keep the helical gear and end bearings lubed. I appreciate the support. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsiler Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 Glad you got it off. What I do and have read and been told what other people do is just a couple squirts of oil(30 weight, automatic trans fluid,etc, etc and etc) before and maybe durning the time you are using it. Do a search and you will find alot of different ideas on this. It's doesn't matter what your using it's going to leak out. Some people say grease the bearings. I did (probably used to heavy of a grease) and had to clean it out. Made it very hard to crank. Now just a few drops of oil and it works good. Billy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosco Posted September 2, 2009 Author Share Posted September 2, 2009 The only caveat I’m aware of is to avoid oils with a sulfur-based EP component like most GL5 oils because it can corrode yellow metal gears and bushings. I get my info from the antique farm equipment hobbyists in the area. They have some amazing old machinery… running like clocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gaylan veater Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 I have 3 Champion blowers and have rebuilt all of them. I have used 30w engine oil with some ATF added to it. I built auto transmissions every day so I just have to add the ATF. It is a good detergent. Anyway that is my 2 cents. ( Also I learned from experience that the bearings do not need grease on them it does make it hard to turn until the grease gets worked out) Just lube with oil!!! Gaylan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crij Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 Recently rebuilt mine, full tear down and new bearings. The bearings need only a little Lithium grease and the gears only need a couple drops of oil when you go to use it. Best to use either Gear oil or Way oil, as they are tacky and will stay with the gears longer and both lubes are meant for sliding applications. You can also use SAE30, just be careful not to use too much as you will thin out the grease in the shaft bearings. All you need is enough to wet the gears. I normally take the top cover off each time I use it to add oil, as the oil hole, in the cover, only drops oil on the worm drive gear and not the spur gear connected to the handle. Take care, Rich C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsiler Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 crij, You said: "I normally take the top cover off each time I use it to add oil, as the oil hole, in the cover, only drops oil on the worm drive gear and not the spur gear connected to the handle." Never done the quote thing, sorry! Good idea, never thought about that. Thanks for bringing it to our attention. Billy By the somebody, how do you do a quote? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james_leland Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 I don't have any blowers yet, but would graphite (the kind in the rattle can) work?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosco Posted September 3, 2009 Author Share Posted September 3, 2009 It may be old school, but I was always told that gear lube should be sticky so it isn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsiler Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 They look nice painted but I like them as is. With all the oil I don't beleive they will rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosco Posted September 3, 2009 Author Share Posted September 3, 2009 You’ve got a good point. The one I just cleaned up had a heavy coating of old oil mixed with years of coal dust, smoke and what looked like saw dust. Under it all there was no rust… anywhere. If it weren’t for the fact that anything that came in contact with it became permanently stained with black crud, it was probably some of the best protection you could ask for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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