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Those are different sizes and shapes of fullers made from spring, and I can use them with my hand hammer, a striker, or under a power or treadle hammer.

I got the idea from Bill Bastas when he was at Tom Clark's school giving a power hammer class. Bill would make much larger tools like these out of one piece for power hammer tooling. I just adapted it for my hand work. They work great, and have a much lower profile than hand held punches and fullers. Most of them are made from 3/4" spring.

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My two cents.....

WOW!

I have been watching this thread and Brian, you blow me away with the hammer. You guys who get to meet up with Brian and Karen this weekend suck, J/K!, are lucky souls.

I have been lucky to make 1 hammer in my time with the teaching of Sean Cunningham, an artisan/blacksmith up here. It is my pride and joy. I do like the way you heat treat the hammer, very cool idea. Can I ask how you made the facing fuller? When I did mine we ground then sanded the face to shape before HT. I do not have any power hammers and I am usually on my own, so is it hard to make a hammer on your own? Any videos or books?

To those who live on the route Brian and Karen are taking, get your guild, or smithing friends together and arrange a forge night/day, this thread alone should be enough of a "carrot" as to what you can learn.

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Thanks DennisG, the round swage is made with a striker in less than 1/2 hour. I start with 1 1/4" round 4140 and draw a short taper that will fit in my hardy hole then mark a cut line all the way around with a hot cut, leaving enough material to form the tool. In the second heat I cut the material almost all the way off but leave it attached. Take another heat then head it into the hardy after I ring the piece off, and I start a large ball fuller into the material. Take another heat and drive the ball fuller in somemore. Take another heat and forge the side of the tool to an octagon, which will collapse the round depression a bit, [this is important because it allows you to drive the ball fuller in more because you reduce the surface area contact. If you were to just keep trying to force the ball fuller in without collapsing the deppression, you won't get very far very quickly because too much surface area contact,] Take one last heat and finish forging with the ball fuller while you blow and brush the scale out that forms until it stops forming.

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