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I Forge Iron

rusted iron gates


marcraine

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i have iron gates that are partially in the exterior elements. they are currently rusting and i like them that way.

Is there a method to arrest the rust where it is now and then put a finish so
existing rust will not rub off of me as i pass through them


how can i neutralze the existing rust

suggestions i have heard:
1. get rust to desired amount
coat with a 50/50 mix of tung oil and boiled linseed oil.

2. coat with a VARNNISH

i WANT THEM TO LOOK OLD AND RUSTY LIKE WHEN PAINT CHIPS OFF OUTDOOR FURNITURE AND IT IS PARTIALLY RUSTED.

THERE HAS JUST GOT TO BE A WAY. I WOULD NOT MIND HAVING TO DO MAINTENANCE 2 TIMES PER YEAR. OR SO.

I HAVE NEVER JOINED A GROUP LIKE THIS AND HAVE NO IDEA IF I AM DOING IT RIGHT OR WHO THIS IS GOING TO.
WOULD LOVE ADVISE

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follow your suggestions, with this in mind:

once the gates are rusted to your liking, you should wire brush lightly to remove loose rust, leaving the rusted bare metal.

the tung oil and/or linseed oil ARE varnish, no need to top-coat. You can use one or the other, or both blended (which I never tried) Boiled linseed dries very slowly, the thicker, the slower. tung dries faster and can be a little thicker

Any oil will Darken your rusted surface considerably. Can still look good, IMO.

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Marcraine;
Everyone has that problem; namely, how to arrest rust so to keep it at desired levels. When you apply regular lackers, varnishes, or any other finish protector, none of them will do much good unless they contain a U.V. inhibitor, Ultra violet light will undermined any coating not suited for the harsh outdoor environment. Once the U.V. light causes the surface coating to get little microscopic fractures, oxigen an moisture sips in and rusts wakes up and grows! The oils recommended are good too. Nelson

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Marine polyurethane varnish (Interlux or Pettit are my choices). You have choice of if an amber tint is added or not. Remove loose rust, wash with denatured alcohol or acetone (alcohol is more work but safer for you, wear gloves), Wash on with one rag, off with another, change rags as necessary. Rub first coat in with a lint-free rag, work till slight tack starts, but not real sticky. This rag will also turn rust color, so change out as needed.

Apply 2-3 additional coats per re-coat times on label using method of your choice. The UV inhibitors will make your coating last for quite a while. You are stuck with a "wet look" even if you add flattening agent to the top coat. You will need to do maintenance re-coating every year or two depending on exposure, otherwise the coating will start to fleck and you will have to remove and start over. As always test first on a sample piece or section and see if you like it. Since you are talking about a natural oil varnish already, you will like the reduced maintenance of polyurethane.

If you chip the coating, repair it asap by rubbing in new poly. If new rust gets started under the coating, you need to strip and start over. Crevices are always a problem. You may end up filling them with poly.

Oil coatings will need monthly maintenance to keep the appearance nice, depending on weather, exposure, and environment. Texas being sunny and less wet you may get more time between treatment. Natural varnish will also have shorter life.

You may be better served by painting with a satin or flat rust brown/red color unless you have significant variation in color you are trying to preserve. Any coating will reduce the variation you have already. Initial material choices can affect your rusted gate. Some architectural steels self seal to a nice even rust color over time. I can't quote alloy though.

Phil

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