home made refactory cement for clay coat heat treating... with directions

[oakwoodforge]

I keep a covered bucket of this stuff in the shop, adding water or other elements as needed for proper consistancy.

4 parts "yellow" Iowa Bank clay or any kind of clean clay that you can find.
2 parts sifted clean wood ash
1 part powdered charcoal ( crush with Mortar & pestle )
1 part powdered soft firebrick ( crush with Mortar & pestle )
Add water to and let slake ( soak ) for at least 1 hour then remix and adjust water as necessacary to get a consistancy like a thick milk shake.

To apply: Take a small amount of clay slurry in a mixing cup add a splash of water to thin it out and mix using a brush. Clean the freshly sanded /ground blade with acetone or spray brake cleaner (to de-grease). Apply a very thin coating of the clay slip to the entire blade, allow to dry, I set it in the sun, or if its cold out I'll put it in the shop toaster oven, yes! a Toaster Oven every shop needs one. I paid $3.00 for mine at a 2nd hand store.
Once the first coat is dry, with a fine tiped artist's paint brush lay a series of thin 1/8 - 3/16" lines of clay running from spine to edge spaced between 0.5-1.5 inches depending on the size of the blade and the asthetic desired. (thicker clay for thicker blades ) make sure each side roughly matches the other to reduce the chance of warping. Allow to dry again, when dry use a bigger brush/spatula/popsicle stick ....to apply 1/8" to 1/4 " of clay
(depending on size and thickness of the blade ) to the the sides of the blade in a pattern that is pleasing to your eye, once again keeping things even from one side to the next. As a general rule of thumb the coating should be on about 1/3 to as much as 2/3 of the blade depending on the width, but remember you DON'T want the temperline too close to the edge or tip. Also to reduce the sabering ( curving ) effect of differential quenching make sure to clean the clay from the blade's spine. Allow to dry a final time and "Fire" in the Toaster oven at 400-500 degrees for 30 min or so to drive out any remaing moisture.
Heat, quench & temper according to the steel specs, I find that 1084 & 1095 produce the most predictible temper line results for me. Polish with waterstones and or or wet sandpaper. Lightly etch with warmed vinegar to darken the temper line.

WOW ! I actualy managed to get that down with out using any samuri sword slang


Remember to keep and share notes folks.


Jens Butler
Oakwood Forge

[oakwoodforge]

Just a Quick update - to say that Satanite or AP Green # 36 refactory Cement sticks to the blade much better. The home made stuff works to produce a hamon line but it is easy to knock off unless handled carefully. Chopping your charcoal into small peices ( 3/4 " - 1/2" ) helps quite a bit to keep the clay in place. So does useing a steel pipe burried in the coals of your forge, this helps even out any hot spots. This can also work to even out hot spots in a gas forge. Even temps are really important when heat treating, otherwise you end up with a corkscrew instead of a knife

Jens

[the_sandy_creek_forge]

oakwood,
where can you still find ap green products? the dealer went out of business around here (central illinois) some time ago and have had no luck finding new products from them??
Thanx

[oakwoodforge]

Ellis Custom Knifeworks carries AP Green and Satanite Refractory & High Temperature Tools - Ellis Custom Knifeworks

Good people to deal with, they will continue to get my business thats for sure !!
Not too many mailorder companies I can say that about


Jens

Edit: When you contact these or other suppliers, be sure and tell them you got their name from IForgeIron.com It helps spread the word about the IForgeIron site and informs the supplier as to where their business is coming from. Site Admin

[FredW]

Harbison Walker in Lenexa Kansas is where I get mine. I do still get some things from Darrin Ellis but I get refractory from these guys cause it's cheaper.

I did a local search for refractory products and got Harbison Walker.

The dealer dosen't have a web page but they do have email. They may be able to find a dealer closer to you.

Fred Warner

[V]

I´ve a note to reinforce Oakwood says about delicate handling of blade when heat treating is going. I have seen many folks use a wire tied around blade for not lose clay coating. I personally use la lot of sugar in my formula and sticks quite well, no wires, much less "handle with care" at heat treating. How it works it is evident, how sugar affects heat treating, I don´t know yet.