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I Forge Iron

Basic processes.


CBrann

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I am not sure that this is a great idea, but I have been thinking about this for a while.

I have read a few books on blacksmithing, a half dozen or so, Ilgen, Weygers, others, and I notice that there instructions on how the strike with a hammer, highly detailed. But there are other instructions like: fuller.

There is no process on how to do this. There are no instructions on how to use a fuller. I just realized this the other day. I was drawing a rail road spike with my fuller, and "discovered" that if I strike several times to fuller deeply in 2 places with a hump the width of my fuller between, then strike the sides a couple times to keep it true, then drove down the hump between the 2 fullered places, that I drew about twice the speed as not keeping the sides in.

So I guess I am saying that I have not seen, in any books, a set of instructions, or a process, or blue print, that actually describes the use of tools besides the hammer, and hardy. I have seen stuff for chisels, punches, drifts.

But not for a fuller. Am I a simpleton? Am I over complicating this?

Let me know what you all think. At least some of you should get a chuckle from this.

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Page 137 "The Art of Blacksmithing" by Alex Bealer.

This and the preceding page are discussing drawing out. The illustration on pg 137 shows a fuller being used at an interval slightly wider than the fuller itself.

The first paragraph on pg. 137 discusses the necessity of keeping the width of the bar under control to speed drawing.

"The Edge of the Anvil" by Jack Andrews, pg. 45 discusses drawing out using the edge of the anvil as a fuller and the illustration shows evenly placed fuller marks. He doesn't discuss keeping the width under control. Pg. 75 discusses fullers specifically but doesn't discuss any how tos of using them.

As you say Weygers doesn't address keeping the width under control during drawing.

Those are the only three books I have at hand right now. I have seen it mentioned before but don't recall which book.

However, as a fuller is for linear drawing rather than planar drawing I think the authors are assuming a smith who is drawing with a fuller has every intention of controlling the width during the process.

I know it didn't occur to me NOT to do so.

Frosty

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Frosty, Thanks, haven't read either of those but they are on the list now. I am self taught, with the addition of this site and Anvilfire.
It never occurred to me before to keep the width in control as well. I feel like I am learning basic old lessons by trial and error. After the fact it looks silly simple.......

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I'm self taught myself and when I started talking to guys who've been doing it for a while and actually received training I discovered I didn't know some of the most basic things but took some "impossible to do" or "really advanced" things for everyday granted.

I try not to get aggravated when people point out the obvious to me by remembering how many times I miss the obvious completely. ;)

Frosty

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CBrann i also am self taught with help of this site and anvil fire. i probably would be more dinged up than an old anvil if it werent this site. although fullering is not something i have done yet. the really basic stuff is often the hardest. like upsetting or drawing out stock AND keeping it straight. good luck on fullering . although how can i make a fueller?

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I took a broken pickaxe with a wide blade on one side, cut it off, and forged it to fit my hardie hole. it is about a 5/8" radius, and about 2 inches wide

Really all you need is a wide rounded surface with a little height. think about it like a crosspein, except you swing the hammer and strike onto the pein.

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I thought the thread was a sticky or had it's own section but I don't see it. If I remember I'll do some searching myself when I get back from church, brunch and some garage saling. (maybe, I have a powerhammer to get moved in and set up)

By then someone with a memory will probably have pointed it out.

Frosty

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  • 2 weeks later...

Did I mention I cut it with an abrasive wheel? Small stuff I cut hot with hardy/chisel big stuff I cut with an abrasive wheel, don't have a torch. Be patient the steel in picks is abrasive resistant and very hard. Forge at bright yellow and you should do ok.

I get picks from the town dump, or the really cheap junk stores, since I am not going to hit rocks with it, all is good, also if it is softer than your hammer, if you have a errant blow it won't mess up the face of your nice hammer.

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