Is this Wrought Iron

[jevaccaro]

This is from a piece of scrap I picked up some where. A 5/8's rod. I suspected it was wrought iron, so I cut half way through and broke it, showing the grain structure (Pic #1). It heated easily and was very soft when hot. When I tried to bevel the end, the grain started to separate. I tried working it hotter, that helped some, when it cooled at all I was in trouble. I was making a paper towel holder with a leaf finial. Fullering for the leaf caused more

[Steve Sells]

Yes good deal One thing about wrought is there are various grades, depending on how much it was folded and welded back into itself, Your looks a little better than the 5/8 rounds I have. They need to be flattened and re welded a few times then then can be used for many things. Where as the wagon wheel I have Is all ready to use as-is.

Edited May 2, 2009 by steve sells

[Mark Emig]

When you forge wrought iron try to start at just about a welding heat, and more importantly, do not forge it a lower than a low to medium orange color. I have had some of those same problems. Also, forge from the point back each time- it helps to "consolidate" the fibrous grain structure. I have found that when I forge behind the tip, the iron is more likely to split like that. Also be careful how forcefully you forge it. With care, you can use the crappier iron and work it effectively.
Mark

[John B]

Wrought forges differently to steel, leaf ends need to be more 'solid' Almost like a chisel end, or they will split.

[jevaccaro]

Thanks for the replys. I'll try working it hotter still, and lighter hammer blows.
John