Fe-Wood Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 (edited) I used a tom clark hammer over the weekend and I realy liked it... Does anyone have a 2.75 to 3 pounder they whant to sell? I'm looking for flat on one side with rounding on the other and or a cross pean. Edited April 28, 2009 by Fe-Wood add discription Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbob Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 (edited) Tom Clark hammers are becomming collectors items. if you look at the thead on http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f7/slitter-geometry-10584/ it has a ton of good infomation;Brian Brazeal does have a DVD ( in the tailgating section) on making hammers. Big Blu also sells a similar type of hammer. Edited April 28, 2009 by steve sells url corection Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 or rather than a copy, buy the real Hofi hammer. Here at IFI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 IForgeIron is NA distributor for the Hofi Hammer. I have a brand new and unused Hofi F275 that is looking for a good home. Contact me if your interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted April 28, 2009 Author Share Posted April 28, 2009 I'm gathering from the posts that Tom Clark used the Hofi Hammer as his paturn? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
primtechsmith Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 Big Blu also sells a similar type of hammer. There was a link in a post a few above mine....but it mysteriously disappeared when someone made a "url correction"....hmmm. Weird. I have never used a Hofi or Big Blu....I have heard people being happy with both. Peyton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 Peyton Part of the site maintenance is making the site and posts easier to read by turning long URLs into hot links. The corrected line of text was omitted when the edit was saved. It did not mysteriously disappear as you have suggested. We also go through and reduce the large images to thumbnails. This makes the loading of the threads much faster with 10k images instead of images that are megabytes in size. It allows people with slower modems to be able to view the site (not having to wait till all the images download), and people with fast modems to view the site even faster. All this is usually done behind the scene with no one taking notice, and creates a similar look to the entire site, a look that concentrates on the information presented rather than huge stop signs of unrelated text and or large images. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted April 28, 2009 Author Share Posted April 28, 2009 Glen- I PM you about the hammer you have for sale- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
primtechsmith Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 No harm no foul Glenn. I saw the original post with mention to Big Blu....now it is gone...thats all. Peyton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbob Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 (edited) I have several Hofi hammers and a Tom CLark and a couple of Big BLU ...the Tom Clark; and the ones I have seen; all have a flatter pein than do the Hofi or the Big Blu. the Hofi moves metal better than the Tom Clark. now that Tom has passed on I may just put his hammer up . Hofi does not make a rounding hammer or a diagonal pein or a straight pein. you can only get them from Big Blu or make them your self . I hope this does not cause a problem here as I was only trying to answer FE-WOOD question . Edited April 28, 2009 by jimbob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 The harm and foul was that it cast a shadow across the post and the site, the shadow being that IForgeIron had part of a post *mysteriously disappeared* (deleted) and in doing so, had censored Big Blu. Neither was the case. If you have concerns about how IForgeIron is operated, contact me directly. We have corresponded about many things so you have both my email address and my phone number. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 I spoke with Hofi and he feels there is no need for a diagonal peen or a straight peen, you just need hammer control. He then demonstrated hammer control by moving hot metal in any way he wished it to go. He was able to do all these things with just one hammer, and hammer control. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saxonwerks Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 I just compared the pein on my son's Tom Clark to my 2 Hofi's and aside from a bit of rounding/burnishing on his TC and my older Hofi from use, The new unused Hofi is much flatter. Tom was pretty firm on that pein having a flat spot. When I got my new Hofi I saw that Hofi must have convinced him of that much. Tom's hammer is a little less squat than Hofi's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blksmth Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 When I attended one of the first Tom Clark/Uri Hofi instructional classes in Potosi, MO., Tom and Uri were making the Uri Hoffi hammer. They were all hand made, and of the ones I looked at, no two were exactly alike. Some were a little flatter, squatter, etc. It looks like both Uri and Tom mechanized the making of their forged hammer to some extent, but I would guess that when it comes to grinding the faces and drawing out the peen, it is still done by hand which allows for some variation. I was given a 2 3/4 lb. hammer for taking the class and purchased a 3 1/4 lb. hammer from them. At some point I ground a little flat on the peen of both hammers, but have since then reground both peens to an approx. 3/4 inch radius and that is where I'll leave them. I guess the point of this is that a blacksmith doesn't always have to keep the original grind on the faces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.