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Show me your anvil


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post-29468-0-33489600-1359687919_thumb.jIgot out an anvil I have had for many years and brought to the shop. I cut a new stump from a tree we cleaned up in the yard. I would like to know if I have been paying attention to you guys. Obviously a Peter Wright, does the 1 0 5 mean 117#?

Hardy hole measures just over 7/8", so I see that as an oportunity for me to make my own hardies.

Thanks in advance for your replies.

I may need to work on uploading photos.

 

PW 105 back side.bmp

PW 105 top.bmp

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This is  my relatively new, to me anvil. It is a 105 pound Vulcan (ratmeat). As it is staying in one
place and I don’t have access to a large stump I used a I-beam and concrete. It has fair rebound and is quiet. The edges near the horn is chipped, but there enough sharper edges to work with. There is no vibration when the face is used, the horn will vibrate if struck sharply. The rust is gone, washed it with Turco. I have used this anvil for the past several weeks and have no complaint.


 Now for a question: how is a Fisher a “better anvil” than a Vulcan? I like the basic shape of both. 

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Anvil and stand I put together for my son. Since he tends to use mine more, I'm loaning this one to Josh M for classes at his forge.

 

It started life as a counter weight for a guilotine door (individual panel type door where each panel moves in its' own track.)

 

85 lb.s or so with a base fab'ed from 2X4's and 1/4 inch plywood.

 

There's a 2X2 tab welded to the (now) bottom with a 3/4 inch hole in it.  Made a j-bolt from 1/2 inch all-thread which with a large panel washer, nut and lock washer to secure it to the stand.

 

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http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/36740-anvil/

 

Don

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geesh, did you wear a mask while you were acquiring that gem!!!!!!

I felt like it... called the guy up 5 minutes after he posted it... Turns out it was an old high school acquaintance, and I told him that I'd give him his full asking price... He said "consider it yours, see you at 5" 

 

I took a screen shot of the listing, just in case I had to prove how lucky I truly was, and that I in fact didn't steal it....lol

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Here's my railway line contraption. It still needs a lot of grinding and perhaps hardfacing. I haven't tried forging on it yet. I felt rather clever building the base like that, it was quick and simple, but I have since discovered that it makes it impossible to move the anvil using a hand trolley.


I built a similar anvil, and tried hardening the face, but have nothing to compare it to. Got around 60%-65% rebound from a 1" bearing. How'd yours do?
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It's hard to tell the composition just by looking at it.  The hardy and pritchel look correct, which is a good sign, but not a guaruntee that it's not cast iron.  The 1st test should always be for rebound....if your hammer or a steel ball bearing bounces back, then you know you have a good anvil.  The 2nd test should be the ring...if tapped with a hammer a steel or wrought iron anvil will ring if not clamped down.  The reason this is the second test is because some anvils such as fishers do not ring, but that doesn't mean they aren't a quality anvil.  These are tests you can do yourself and will give you a much better conclusion as to wether or not that is an anvil worth using.

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I didn't repair it, and the person who I bought it from didn't either, but It was definitely done at some point. I took this photo back when I first got it and I had just finished cleaning it up and so it looks pretty spiffy at this point. Looking close though, it had lots of little hairline cracks all over the edges... 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Paid $250 for this 200 lb Peter Wright found on the Pittsburgh Craig's list last November and a friend 2 weeks ago brought it down to Texas when he was moving his house.  I forged a knife from a rr spike for the owner to show my appreciation for holding the anvil until I could move it.

 

Built the stand this weekend out of cutoffs from the steel yard.  In the background you can see the piece of railroad track that I've been using and will continue to use when I need a sharp edge.  I plan on using the eyebolts on either side for a spring loaded hold down tool. 

http://www.anvilfire.com/iForge/tutor.php?lesson=jd_holddowns/demo

 

 

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New to this forum and since you asked to show your anvils, here's mine.

In the foreground front is a Trenton 125 lbs, middle a Fisher 110 lbs and in the rear a Fisher 150 lbs. I made all the stands from 6X8 timbers.

Asking for help regarding a large Vulcan I have shown in the next pictures. I scaled it once on a very UNreliable scale and had 304 lbs. Height 13 15/16", total lenght 31 7/8", width 5", Hardie hole 1 3/8" and pritchel hole 5/8". It has a 45 in raised numbers on the base under the troat, but I really don't think it's 450 lbs.

The book "Anvils in America" only lists Vulcans going up to 250 lbs.

My question is, what's it worth? How rare?

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Thanks Vaughn! I "borrowed" that design from a good friend, Bob Ringrose of Mariposa CA. I do several events where portability is a issue. I may be selling the Vulcan and seeing what it's worth, want a double horn to replace it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Asked a buddy if he had anything I could use
As an anvil . He said hey do you want this anvil :) that's a good friend haha forge is in process sadly the dryer blower I got exploded when it fell out of the vise when test wiring it. The anvil is ruff but I have other random steel chunks too . The horn was broke off?! No torch marks . It's a wright 1 0 17 no idea what weight that is 130 ish ? Base is 4 5x5 posts 19" high worked on it tonight not finished.

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This is my anvil, I am a complete nuebee, can anyone tell me more about this "made in Sweden" 126 pounder? I am guessing the wording says " superior" am I close??? any info would be greatly appreciated.... Thanks Brian...
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Your anvil is a SISCO Superior made in sweden.. At the time the steel it was cast from was the worlds best. If you go on google docs there's a tarrif document between a lawyer and a couple ohio and new york anvil makers, they all quote that SISCO Superior was better quality than theirs.

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Just bought a 310 lb cast steel anvil from my friend who found it in New Orleans. He bought it for $200!

The only marking on it is "MADE IN SWEDEN." No handling holes or numbers, and the feet have flat ledges. No indentation on the bottom. Bounces a bearing like a rubber ball and has good edges for the most part. I think it's a Kohlswa but could be Soderfors-- can't wait to get a stand made and start using it!

Sitting on top of it is my Hay-Budden, 129 lbs, made in 1909.

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  • 2 weeks later...

post-26761-0-12325500-1364124023_thumb.jJust showing of an anvil I was given to replace a small old anvil dumped by a bobcat driver. I do not know what brand it is but it weighs 467lb. This anvil is incredibly hard even on the feet on the bottom when I had to cut a corner of. I have noticed that the face angles down, the base is level, is this normal. I had to make a wheel barrow style base so it can be moved around when needed.

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