Show me your anvil

[Frazer]

You won't know how much or little those dings affect your work until you have used the anvil for a long time. I think 2000 hours is the number often thrown around often and I'm sure Glenn will correct me if I'm misremembering that figure. 

The removal of the surface of the anvil by abrasion from scale is a slow process. You can speed up that process by grinding it down flat again, but at the end of that road is the death of an anvil that might otherwise  outlived your kids. Which is why it's never recommended.

[TWISTEDWILLOW]

I see thank you, that’s why before I start setting up and using all the stuff I’ve been collecting I’m trying to read through this website because you guys seem to everything about every aspect of blacksmithing, there is so much information and so many posts on here for me to read through its kinda daunting, it might be a awhile before I start doing anything hands on. I also have a pile of books to get through to. I’m trying to soak in all this information before I start building so I can hopefully put everything together and build all the stands and forge correctly and then hopefully begin learning to use it all correctly without damaging me or the tools lol. 

[ThomasPowers]

Build a JABOD. Source some charcoal and get to forging by this weekend!  As you can tell from our "discussions"  there is a lot of ways things can be done; however I think we all agree that hammering hot steel is a necessity for learning blacksmithing!

Once you have started a lot of the discussions will make more sense.

Hold the cold end and hit the hot end!

[TWISTEDWILLOW]

Tp, Thank you for the advice, I already got a load of coal from the stiglar coal mine, and I’ve found several hand crank blowers, anvils, vises and other tools and machines and an old rivet forge all thanks to using your method. I believe I have everything I need to start building my set up. I’m just trying to do my homework first before putting it all together and trying to use it so I can cut down on making setup mistakes and then asking you guys stupid questions lol. 

 

[Irondragon Forge ClayWorks]

If your rivet forge has a cast iron pan, be sure to line it with a good layer of clay to prevent it from cracking.

[TWISTEDWILLOW]

Yes it’s a cast iron pan Thank you for the tip. I read a post on here yesterday you were talking to someone else about that and his pan cracked on him after forging without a liner. We have lots of red dirt/clay in my area my plan was to dig up a couple buckets full to line it after reading your conversation, the only thing I haven’t read about or figured out yet is how to remove all the flint rock gravel from the clay. I’ve had flint rocks burst on me that were mixed  in a burning brush fire so I figured I’d better get them out of the clay before using it for a liner.

[ThomasPowers]

 Got any shale shaker screens around?  The ones for larger rocks should do fine to sort out racks from the clay---especially if it's dry!

[TWISTEDWILLOW]

Had to google it to see what those were, I never heard of them before. That is a good idea, I don’t have one but It made me think about hardware cloth down at the feed store when I saw the pictures. The ground has been sopping wet around here lately but I could dry out the red dirt next to my wood stove in the shop. you have gave me another good idea I’ve gotta go into town tomorrow and pick up some feed I’ll look and see what all they got laying around that I could use for a screen. 

 

[Frazer]

4 hours ago, TWISTEDWILLOW said:

homework first before putting it all together

No amount of homework can substitute onsite experience. Mistakes and "stupid" (I prefer the word fundamental) questions are expected when starting anything. I ask what would be considered fundamental questions to some just about every day! Unfortunately, or perhaps fortunately, we aren't born knowing everything. Just saying 

6 hours ago, TWISTEDWILLOW said:

seem to (know?) everything about every aspect of blacksmithing

Speaking for myself, I know very little about blacksmithing. I've only been at it 2 years now and much of that was spent just experimenting, reading, applying what I saw, starting over, (watching youtube videos ) plus a few classes that are offered near me. One of those classes was the first time I ever hit hot steel with a hammer. I'll just say that I'm glad I had someone with experience there watching to correct what I was doing in real time.

I know things are different now than they were 2 years ago (for obvious reasons). I'm just perhaps stating the obvious. I agree with TP, you have to start somewhere, why not soon?

[ThomasPowers]

Think of it as a Christmas present to yourself!

[pnut]

On 12/16/2020 at 3:43 PM, ThomasPowers said:

Build a JABOD. Source some charcoal and get to forging by this weekend!  As you can tell from our "discussions"  there is a lot of ways things can be done; however I think we all agree that hammering hot steel is a necessity for learning blacksmithing!

I couldn't agree more. Just getting started is the biggest obstacle I had. I spent a long time researching and reading when I could have been being taught directly by the steel. I think research is a necessity but sometimes you can get trapped in the mindset that the more you read the more you think you need before you can get started actually forging something. It was an epiphany when I realized exactly how little you really need to start Blacksmithing. 

I tell people all the time now that they could build a jabod and be forging tonight. I wish I could get some of the time back I spent looking for the perfect equipment so I could have actually used it to do some hands on learning instead of reading about everything I didn't have. 

Pnut

[TWISTEDWILLOW]

Thank you guys for your time and Input sharing your experience, I appreciate it. I’ll start pulling out everything I’ve been collecting and give it a go this weekend 

[ThomasPowers]

You might be able to buy or build "perfect equipment"; but the only way to "perfect your smithing skills" is by hammering hot steel!

[Ballast]

Hey all, first post figured I better make it a good one. 

My perun swiss artisan anvil 100kg/220lbs, ~1" hardy, pritchel holes are 1/2", 5/8" and 7/8". The base profile is cut into the stump and glued. Never owned an actual anvil before this so I cant compare it to anything else other than my ASO and a hunk of railroad track. Vastly superior to them, love this anvil.

[Frosty]

5 hours ago, TWISTEDWILLOW said:

I’ll start pulling out everything I’ve been collecting and give it a go this weekend 

That's the point of pnut's last post, you do NOT NEED everything you've collected. You "need:" your anvil,  (stand optional) place to build a fire, hammers, stock. PERIOD, you do NOT need tongs, hardy, punches, top or bottom tools. 

A camp fire a prevailing breeze and some scrounged pipe makes a forge that'll weld. If you have a blow drier you're golden though them make too much air, you can aim it so it's not all blowing into the piece of pipe to the coals.

If you cut your stock say 18-24" long you can hold it bare handed with a rare bit of water to cool your hand hold. I use a wet rag, it's neater and I can't drop a hot piece of steel in it accidentally, like a bucket.

Garage, yard, etc. sales are excellent places to find tools and stock for cheap. It's really common to find file, chisel, punch sets for next to nothing, Allen key sets are excellent tool stock and common, smooth faced hammers around 32 oz. are desirable, ball and cross peins are common and easy to modify. 

Once you get the rocks sifted out of your clay and it's ready to install in the forge do NOT make mud or it'll shrink check (crack) as it dries. Only add JUST ENOUGH moisture to pack hard, use a mallet, 2x4 on end, etc. and ram it hard. Before you ram it in mixing it 1pt. clay to 2or3 pts. sand improves things. Sand gives particles room to move slightly so it's less likely to heat check, better it provides ways for steam to escape without potential spalling. Clay LOVES water and WILL absorb it from the air, fog, where ever.

Stop worrying about researching the craft, you have to know enough to know what info is useful and what's the helpful blathering of folk who's only knowledge comes from watching Youtube or reading. Folk who don't know enough to tell good from bad and until YOU know enough it's just confusing. 

Build a fire even if it's a trench in the back yard, build a fire and start beating HOT steel. 

Frosty The Lucky.

 

[TWISTEDWILLOW]

Ballast, that’s a sweet looking anvil, that’s cool that it has three sizes of pritchel holes. 

[arkie]

Nice anvil.  I recommend hanging a big sign near it..."NO RUNNING AROUND ANVIL".  That horn looks like it could skewer someone!

[Davor]

18 hours ago, Ballast said:

My perun swiss artisan anvil 100kg/220lbs

Nice. New, old? Looks like next step in evolution of anvils, different radius edges, pritchel holes, upsetting block, sharp horn (I’ll need to make a bick for my hardy hole because the horn isn’t as sharp as I would want it to be).

[jlpservicesinc]

Tennis ball on the end of it..  Or  piece of pipe with a draw spring.. Even bicycle tube  would work well. 

I hate when and anvil does not have a full tip.  Both the Peddinhaus and Refflinghaus have blunted tips from the factory. 

 

[Ballast]

5 hours ago, Davor said:

Nice. New, old? Looks like next step in evolution of anvils,

It's new from on line store. Picked it up a little over a year ago. I'm still pretty green to this art but I'm finding new ways to really appreciate the design every time I forge. I put some blocks down and laid it on its side the other day to forge over the angled portion of the heel like a giant butcher. Not very practical to setup but it was fun! Should probably just make a hardy tool for that haha

10 hours ago, arkie said:

 That horn looks like it could skewer someone!

It came blunted at the last 1/4" but man all the edges on this thing were super sharp when I got it. Tennis ball or something at the end is a good idea, do not want to skimp on safety 

[Tellburkett]

Picked up a 1926 soderfors 148lb today. It was pretty steep at 5 a pound, but its almost flawless. Anvil prices are ridiculous here in middle TN. People asking 4 to 5 a pound for anvils with flaking faces, etc..This should do me well for a while until I find my giant unicorn

[Frosty]

2 hours ago, Tellburkett said:

Picked up a 1926 soderfors 148lb today.

Oooh, SWEET SCORE! You aren't going to find a better anvil, my 125lb. Soderfors out performs my 206lb. Trenton considerably. Just wait till you've gotten used to that beautiful lady. I highly recommend a steel tripod stand, it'll take a lot of the dangerously loud ring out of it. I can work mine without hearing protection so long as I don't miss a blow near the heel.

What are you doing that you need a giant anvil? Do you have strikers maybe? 

Frosty The Lucky.

[jlpservicesinc]

congrats.. That is a great anvil for sure.. $5.00 per pound was a good price.  I would have paid that easily. 

150lbs was considered an average size here.. 

[Tellburkett]

Thank you guys! Im pretty excited about it. There's a 387 lb Trenton i was saving up for in KY, but I got impatient. I like bigger anvils because they don't dance around the garage when I'm working on the horn. The chain I out around it helped with the ring quite a bit. Another reason I like bigger anvils is bc I dont have a power hammer yet and I use a 10 lb sledge with a short handle to make quicker work with processing scrap. 

150 is about the average here too. I hit some hard times during the summer with work being sketchy. I had to sell my 220lb mouse hole, and took a hit for it. But now that im sitting good financially, im wanting to build my smithy back up the way I always wanted it.

Now that I have an anvil, im looking to build a tire hammer (thinking about the clay spencer) and a 2x72.

This was my mouse hole.

I read that soderfors have a tendency to chip on the edges. Do I need to be unusually careful around the edges? Its cast steel, correct? Im not finding a lot of information about it. 

[jlpservicesinc]

One should always use proper techinque on any anvil no matter the shape.   

Eagle, german trentons, sodefors, and others that have really hard faces do have a tendency to chip more in the edges.. But his chipping is never caused by working hot or even cold metal..  It's all created by bad hammer strikes..