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I Forge Iron

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Not done yet but this was cut from 4" plate. Horn was roughed with a O/A torch the finished with a 7" zircon flap disc. Feet cut separate and will be severely welded ;)

This is a 80# piece of drop from cutting a hole in a steel plate. No one said an anvil has to have the standard anvil shape.

140-lb pre-1910 Peter Wright. Aged, badly abused, and severely chipped, but no cracks or large chunks broken off. Stand fabbed from scrap angle, strap iron and some fresh 1" square tubing. Two "cutout

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I love the thinness of the heel on my 91# A&H; it tends to sit close to my anvils that have thick heels so I can use it instead of a bridge.

Tell him he needs to make something nice for his Grandfather!

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He needs to do a lot for his grandfather. We were just talking about an anvil we missed out on he said he had one in the barn. My sons eye lit up and this is what he had. Just getting into this hobby and he is excited. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

A new to me anvil, possibly a Wilkinson Dudley (though the markings are pretty much impossible to make out).

Good face with only a few dings and a little sway, 80%+ rebound, 157# (1-1-17 clearly marked).

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There are over 200 *known* anvil manufacturers in England over the last couple of hundred years. Even finding another identical anvil wouldn't mean they were made by the same manufacturer. Probably the best you can do is to research "styles" to get an idea of when and perhaps where it was made.

I would contact Richard Postman directly by mail with good pictures of all sides and ask for his opinion.

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 Richard Postman is from what I have read is a legend regarding his knowledge of anvils I would love to hear his thoughts. Is he available through this forum or should I look him up. Thanks Thomas

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Today I picked up my first London pattern anvil. Not a big one by any means, but usable enough to hold me over until I can justify spending the bucks on a big boy. This little devil ia a Trenton 100lbs with a maker's mark of "T" before the weight. Im told that the serial number corresponds with the manufacture date of 1908. I can't confirm this yet, but I will drop a photo in the Trenton ID thread to get some knowing eyes on it.  I may have paid a little too much for it but its got great rebound and rings like a bell, even with a couple minor cracks and repairs.  There is maybe a 1/16" or less saddle on the face. But I figure its still got a lifetime or so of being on the receiving end of a 2lb hammer. 20201010_102324.thumb.jpg.7974e4a8b1ccdc7a044572c989bae81e.jpg

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I believe Glenn is saying to break the sharp transition from the face to the chamfer and dome the face SLIGHTLY. The sharp corner between face and chamfer WILL cut marks in your work where you don't want them. 

Ditto Jenifer, the handle should go into your hammer, handle stock pile, it's just something to trip over where it is now.

Frosty The Lucky.

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