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Show me your Bottle Openers!

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A good tip i got is to get yourself a block brush if you want to get a lot, and most, of the scale off a piece. In my personal experience, a welding brush doesnt get a lot of the scale off. It all depends on the finish you are going for though.

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On 4/6/2016 at 10:51 PM, norrin_radd said:

I like the dragons!

I started making some Bulldog openers:

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spHyYpQ.jpg

Me and my son have make a few of these together, good times.

You'll probably find a lot of Mack truck drivers that would buy those. Take a few in to your local Mack dealer and let them see them. they might let you put up a small display and a card. That or talk to a few guys at a decent sized trucking company that run Macks. I bet after a few guys buy one, you'll get calls from other drivers wanting their own.

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2 hours ago, DSW said:

You'll probably find a lot of Mack truck drivers that would buy those. Take a few in to your local Mack dealer and let them see them. they might let you put up a small display and a card. That or talk to a few guys at a decent sized trucking company that run Macks. I bet after a few guys buy one, you'll get calls from other drivers wanting their own.

Hey DSW, thats a great idea. Thanks!

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18 hours ago, Frosty said:

Simple is good. It needs more wire brushing and a finish but everything that opens a bottle is there.

Nicely done.

Frosty The Lucky.

 

2 hours ago, Forging Carver said:

A good tip i got is to get yourself a block brush if you want to get a lot, and most, of the scale off a piece. In my personal experience, a welding brush doesnt get a lot of the scale off. It all depends on the finish you are going for though.

Thanks 

it is brushed pretty good there is not much scale I brushed at Orange heat with a wet brush I think the pic just makes it look scaly because the handle is rough peened with a ball peen. It does have a bees wax finish on it .I do have a block brush but I find it a bit agresive on small stuff like this. Some times I get in a bit of a hurry and don't brush between heats leaving scale depressions.

definitly looks like a shoe horn thanks for the feedback

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Wet brush? That's a new one on me. What's the water do?

Frosty The Lucky.

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On 4/13/2016 at 8:53 PM, Jonah k said:

 I brushed at Orange heat with a wet brush 

Is that like hammering on a wet anvil to blow off the scale with the steam?

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13 hours ago, Frosty said:

Wet brush? That's a new one on me. What's the water do?

Frosty The Lucky.

It helps to pop the scale off, similarly when using a flatter to finish we sometimes wet both anvil face (make sure it is clean) and the flatter before use and it seems to improve the surface finish

"Is that like hammering on a wet anvil to blow off the scale with the steam" 

Scale should be removed prior to forging on the anvil face, any scale will be driven into the surface as you forge, using warer, or a quick dip into the slack tub at orange heat helps loosen the scale, and the wire brush (Usually a heavy duty one) then removes it more quickly and easily.

The hammering on a wet anvil is a finishing process basically similar to why we use water on faces on anvil and flatter when finishing. Seems to be more of a blademakers tecnique than general forging.

Water jets are used in the rolling mills to remove scale as steel is being manufactured to remove scale which would otherwise be rolled into the surface of the finished product, 

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On 3/30/2016 at 10:20 PM, Black Frog said:

Playing with flat stock today... Flat stock is quick and easy to crank out openers.  

2016-03-29 22.13.17.jpg

How do you do the surface finish?  I like it

 

 

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21 hours ago, Frosty said:

Wet brush? That's a new one on me. What's the water do?

Frosty The Lucky.

My take on it is what john b said seems to work for me. Contracts the scale as opposed to the steel that has more thermal mass and kind of seperates them. I think

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It's cake, fully wire brush and oil blacken, then scrub with abrasive cloth of grit and duration to your liking.  

2016-04-01 11.19.12.jpg

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20 hours ago, Black Frog said:

It's cake, fully wire brush and oil blacken, then scrub with abrasive cloth of grit and duration to your liking.  

2016-04-01 11.19.12.jpg

ok.  That gets the black in the depressions.   Then I assume you come back with heat on the bare metal spots and run colors to desired color?   Awesome.  Easy ehh.

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Great pineapple twists Jake.  I like the chunky appearance and the oil (?) finish too.

I see you make them with the rail spike head either up or down. I used to do all mine (just an ordinary twist) with the heads up until someone commented that they would be more comfortable in the hand if they were point down. Now I make a variety.

My next one will have a pineapple twist ... thanks for the pics.

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OK, so I decided to try one of Jake's pineapple twist bottle openers. It fell short of my expectations, but I think it was a learning experience. It's a bit chunkier than I wanted, although it does fit the hand well enough.

Perhaps next time - more turns in the first twist (hotter perhaps), deeper grooves for the thicker material or draw it out a bit first. I may also grind the pitting off the spike first to make the twists more defined. Suggestions welcome.

I did the other one out of 12mm stock which was much easier.

DSC_5873.JPG

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On 5/2/2016 at 9:38 PM, ausfire said:

Great pineapple twists Jake.  I like the chunky appearance and the oil (?) finish too.

I see you make them with the rail spike head either up or down. I used to do all mine (just an ordinary twist) with the heads up until someone commented that they would be more comfortable in the hand if they were point down. Now I make a variety.

My next one will have a pineapple twist ... thanks for the pics.

I shot them with a clear spray shellac. Lasts a good long time. The one with the spike head up was done by accident. I wanted it to be the other way but made a mistake in guessing which side to make the lip prior to twisting. That one stays in my shop. 

I did score these deep with a chisel to give them the definition I wanted. And yes a good heat for each twisting.

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Yep, that's neat. Can we have a view of the top of the hammer please?

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