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Hy guys ... I was wondering how whoud u punch/sleed about 200 holes on an angle different than 90degres. Let's say 30 or 40degres. The stock is 14x14mm square and i have to insert a 14x14mm into the hole. I am really considering into cheating this . I also added a smal drawing for a better understanding of the joining neddet.

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Off the top of my head it looks like you will need a Jig to do that.

I would be inclined to drill a small pilot hole and follow up with a slitter as described in "Slitter Geometry" thread, and then drifts. You didn't say if these were going to be individual or series of several in the same bar.

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The holes will eventualy be on a line about 3 holes/meter on 3 meter long stock but im also considering doing them individualy and then weld them to complete the bar. I will probably need 3 gigs 1 to dril 1 to slid and one to spread ... and this will only work for individualy holes i think only i think it whould be easyer/faster/cheaper to cheat this one .

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Hi Valentin, Are you going through from face to face or through edge to edge?

The operations are: slit from both sides, (staggered or through on the required angle) open up the slot with a starter drift, then drift to final shape at the required angle, you will need a bottom bolster with a hole through at this required angle, you may then need a top and bottom swage to form the finished sides/form dpends on what you need to give a satisfactory job, Ten make an use a length gauge to establish position of next hole, and repeat as you progress along the bar.

Hope this helps,

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Think jigs. Set the work table to the angle desired and pre-drill and punch. Hofi has a Blueprint on getting the holes aligned to the dorrect spacing in the 1000 series. Log into the site on the home page and look at the hole punching BP's above 1050.

BP1051 Punch Calculations

BP1058 Punching Holes on the side
BP1057 Punching Holes on the Diamond
BP1056 Punching Holes
BP1055 Punching Holes
BP1054 Punching Holes

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Hi Valentin, Are you going through from face to face or through edge to edge?

The operations are: slit from both sides, (staggered or through on the required angle) open up the slot with a starter drift, then drift to final shape at the required angle, you will need a bottom bolster with a hole through at this required angle, you may then need a top and bottom swage to form the finished sides/form dpends on what you need to give a satisfactory job, Ten make an use a length gauge to establish position of next hole, and repeat as you progress along the bar.

Hope this helps,


John B has the answer. Ed and I did this at Alfred Habermann Jr.s' on square stock on the diamond. We started by making a nick with a file on one side at the spacing where each hole was to go. The nick helped to start your slitter at the angle.
Joseph Habermann, Alfred Sr.'s grandson, was here last year and held a workshop on this very thing. I would strongly suggest that anyone interested in this technique or others get in contact with him or his father, Alfred Jr., or his brother, David, or all three, and get your association to sponsor a workshop and/or demo with them. I know Joseph speaks very good English now. tel.: +420 736 666 012
e-mail: [email protected]

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Hello VALENTINE
I am attuching here a drawing of the system I use to forge this type of holes.
The drawing is based on 30 mm ODrond steel and 30 mm hole diameter because it is more clear to show and explain.
First you go to the drawing board and draw the plan.
on the upper part you can seethe 30mm steel the center line of the steel and the line A perpendicular to the steel AND THE CENTER OF THE FUTRER HOLE .
on the crossing point you draw a line 30 degrees to the steel(30 degrees just as a sample but any othe angle is ok to).
The C points are the place you put a centerpunch to mark the places of the futer hole slitting with the chisle from both sides. you mark them on the steel acc to the needed distance between the holes.
Have you done this take the chisle which is sharpen in a v like shape and put the point on the center punch and anddrive the chisel to the center of the steel until the two slots colide as the drawing show.
then tilt the chisel a bit more then 30 degrees and drive the chisle in more from both sides until you get a clean hole.
now you have to preper a steel plate with a hole driled at 32 degrees abd drive the drift into the slot through the guiding hole in the plat .
this system is very acurate and you do not need a templat to go from one hole to the other
The 2 degrees more on the plate hole is because of the pressure on the drift that push it to be less then 30.
hope thigs are clear
Hofi

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Thanks guys for the explenations . I still have a few days until i need to start working on this holes. I'll probably use Hofi's schetch ... and do them nanual because by the time i am done making the dies for the presses and the drill i'll probably have them finished. So Hofi next time you are in Romania i'll have a cold beer waiting for you. :) Thanks for your help as always more than helpfull

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Did someone say something about haveing the Hobberman's come back for teaching classes? THAT wold be wonderful!!!! I meet joseph last year at the CBA conference in Vita, Ca. What a nice man!!! Regretfully, I didn't have an oppertunity to work with him. Although Idid get to discuss a few techniques.

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Man ... i really hate punching this big square holes in this small stock. I will defenetly be cheating this one...and to be honest i can't understand how u manage to slid perfect in the middle every time . Just a fraction of milimeter offcenter when u slid and the enire hole is ofceneter to... and this is what's happening on a press and a jig not by hand :) Not to mention doing them on angle. I will probably make the holes in a 90degres cut the middle of the hole put the element in on an angle and than weld and grind. :) I am sorry i have to admit this but i just whanted to let you know and to be honest. Thanks again for your suport and schetches everybody

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