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Here's another 3D printed piece with reforged file. Handle is black walnut. Jim Merola, a far more experienced knifemaker in NYC I have been hanging out with, gave some great feedback. I wasn't really digging my choice to use copper pins - he said he doesn't mind them, but would prefer no pins at all; the epoxy he (and now I) use will be a secure enough bond. I also like his suggestion of having the guard stick out a bit farther. He was not happy with my choice of wood... I really should be using something stabilized. He says in general my choice of handle materials don't match the quality of my work, and in some cases is a detriment to the value of the finished piece. Makes total sense, good advice. Anyways, it seems like in two months or so I'll be trying to launch a crowdfunding campaign to drive down the price of 3D printed components by purchasing a SLS 3D printer. This knife, the "Chassis" knife http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/42881-chassis-3d-printed-cast-bronze-liner-lock-with-w2-and-iron/ and the "Titan" knife (still under construction) will all be part of the campaign, so all critique is appreciated since it helps me better the design. Theo
Hard to follow on the heel of Darren's W2 and maple... but here's a recent fun forging of mine. This was forged from a 1/2" x 3/4" bar - because that's all they had - so I went to town cutting and curling. Heat treated with APG 36, quick dip in water then to oil. Mahogany to keep it simple. What's the cleanest way to peel off layers for these kinds of integrals? I have access to a small jig saw with metal blade but I imagine that would take eons. Comments and critique welcome.